As February kicks off, we’re spotlighting the Black designers who are creating some of the most dynamic and thought-provoking clothing around the world. Some have already reached modern icon status, including Pharrell Williams, Grace Wales Bonner, Christopher John Rogers, and Telfar Clemens. Idris Balogun, Kingsley Gbadegesin and Anifah Mvuemba are also rising stars, and before you know it, their work will be everywhere. Here, we push boundaries, challenge norms, experiment with new and traditional techniques alike, and ultimately leverage our platform to bring awareness to different cultures to help shape the global fashion industry. Here’s a primer on the creative forces that are making their mark.
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“I’ve always wanted to celebrate Jamaica’s past, present and future through my clothes,” the Teofilio designer told W in a 2023 interview. “I wanted to create a bridge from my home country to the rest of the world.” Since launching Theophilio in 2016 with a runway show held inside a Brooklyn garage, Thompson has made a name for herself in the world of high fashion, earning a C.F.D.A. ’s Emerging Designer of the Year award and hosted multiple toasty New York Fashion Week shows. of the season.
Diotima’s designer Scott is also from Jamaica, but is a newcomer to the scene. Her first NYFW presentation debuted in September 2023 and generated buzz among fashion insiders weeks before the show. However, this brand is not resort wear. “I always find it funny,” Scott told W about false equivalence. “I think it’s because I’m Jamaican and I crochet, but there’s a lot of tailoring and there’s a lot of wool.” But Diotima’s most exciting work is probably the work that contrasts with crochet. (See: Beautifully tailored wool suits and pleated skirts from the Spring 2024 collection).
Williams, who was appointed Louis Vuitton’s creative director for the men’s wear market in 2023, is responsible for leading the French house’s men’s wear market with sophisticated suiting moments and unconventional prints that bring a fun experience to the world of men’s fashion. The design is boldly expressed.
Christopher John Rogers always brings the boldest colors and southern touches to his collections. His latest creations are full of vibrant hues that we admire and crave from his namesake brand.
Chloë Sevigny shines in her CJR look.
Known for her high-shine style, you’ll feel like Laquan Smith’s designs stand out above the rest.
Beyoncé channeled the reality of the Renaissance with Laquan Smith.
British-Jamaican designer Grace Wales Bonner has dominated the fashion world, highlighting the socio-economic status of her black and brown brothers and sisters.
Pia Davis and Autumn Randolph
The co-creators of the brand No Sesso (meaning “no sex/no gender” in Italian) focus on creating pieces that challenge the status quo and welcome wearers from all walks of life.
Noseso
A look at the SS23 show.
lorraine west
Whimsical, delicate, and always fierce, jewelry designer Lorraine West’s contemporary pieces are handcrafted in New York City.
18K rose and white gold shooting star choker.
Awet Woldegebriel
Awèt’s latest collection focuses on luxurious classics that are comfortable yet timeless.
lauren harwell godfrey
Her first jewelry collection debuted at Paris Fashion Week in 2018, and since then, Godfrey has left a huge mark on the world of fine jewelry. Inspired by the African diaspora and crafted using precious stones and 18K gold, each piece is a unique work of art.
Jason Rembert
Jason Rembert’s Alliet designs have become popular among celebrities and streetwear stars alike, and you’re just as likely to see his designs on the red carpet as you are out on the town on a Friday night. There is a gender.
Brandon Blackwood
Brandon Blackwood continues to make waves in the fashion world with his viral Kendrick trunk bag. The designer also does research in eyewear, as seen in the chic sunglasses below.
bernard james
The Brooklyn-born jewelry designer’s collection includes playful motifs like mushrooms and reflective mirrors.
Teresa Evagua
Since launching her brand Chelsea Paris in 2012, Teresa Evagua has created a style that is effortlessly chic, yet exudes a fresh, cheerful energy.
chelsea paris
Maeva Heim
Heim launched BREAD in 2020 as a safe haven for those with curly hair looking for clean, easy products to keep their hair healthy.
camille perry
TOVE is a womenswear brand that combines striking silhouettes with unique feminine elements to create a versatile wardrobe for any occasion. Perry co-founded the label with Holly Wright.
sergio hudson
The Sergio Hudson brand was launched in 2014 and has since become a favorite of Vice President Kamala Harris, Beyoncé, and house muse Kiki Palmer. Over the past decade, the South Carolina native has consistently created designs that embody elegance and poise.
Fantasia is custom made by Sergio Hudson.
maximilian davis
In addition to being the creative director of Salvatore Ferragamo, Maximilian Davis drew on his Trinidadian and Jamaican roots to launch his eponymous brand.
Thames wearing a FW23 leopard print long coat.
Kingsley Gbadegesin
Gbadegesin’s brand K.ngsley, known for its playful and subversive jewelry that incorporates PrEP pills as a design motif, has also recently launched stunning swimwear and accessories.
Aneshka Boozer
A self-taught jewelry designer, Boozer founded Knature the Label in 2017. The brand’s mission is to create pieces that connect with the wearer on a deeper level.
Andrea Iyama
Born in Nigeria, Iyamah always stays true to his culture in his designs, combining traditional African silhouettes to create a unique wow factor.
Malaika Jones
Malaika, CEO of Brown Girl Jane Fine Fragrance, has worked with her team to create a scent that is ethically sourced, smells amazing and perfectly complements the modern woman.
james flemons
A proud champion of queer rights and equality, designer James Flemuns of Phlemuns continues to push boundaries with flowing designs that everyone feels comfortable wearing.
Idris Balogun
Winner of the 2022 LVMH Karl Lagerfield Prize, Balogun’s Winnie pieces offer a fresh, modern take on menswear staples.
Jameel Mohammed
Khiry designer Jameel Mohammed highlights black lifestyle and culture through luxurious, modern pieces.
Telfer Clemens
Already one of this generation’s most famous black designers, Telfar Clemens taps into New York City’s energy with his iconic Telfar shopping bag (dubbed the “Bushwick Birkin” for its status appeal). succeeded. Demand for this bag is so high that the designer only releases it in intermittent and limited drops.
Heron Preston
Preston returned to New York Fashion Week after a three-year hiatus, but it was as if she had never left. Youthful, West Coast-inspired designs gave the runway a particularly relaxed vibe.
Maxwell Osborne
Maxwell Osborne, founder of AnOnlyChild (a label whose clothing is completely upcycled) and one of the co-founders of Public School, looks to his culture and upbringing in his latest collection.
an only child
Ashley Simone and Moya Anes
The duo behind accessories label ASHYA are committed to creating better travel essentials by blending practicality and style.
david lees
Reese is the creator of 10 Thousand Things, a brand she founded with Ron Anderson, a self-taught jewelry designer. The two share a love of extraordinary stone and sculptural design.
mimi camara
New York-based celebrity makeup artist turned beauty brand Maven Kamara received the ultimate sign from Pat McGrath when it came to her brush skills. Now, Kamala’s own beauty brand is born and available to all girls.
Anifa Mvwemba
Bold colors and luxurious textures that complement all the right curves are exactly what you’ll find at Anifa Mvwemba’s label, Hanifa.
Will Glory Tanjong
Anima Iris was created for women who want bold, vibrant pieces that command attention in the room. Tanjong draws inspiration from the aesthetic cultures of Ghana and Cameroon to create designs that are fresh yet rooted in tradition.
martin alli
This up-and-coming jewelry designer focuses on reviving the classic chain-style jewelry that was mainstream in the early 2000s. Her bold designs incorporate safety pins, lockets and hooks, offering endless layering possibilities.
Celine Arboua Metzler
Founded in 2021 and based in Switzerland, Iman Ama is an accessories brand that hones in on quality and sustainable practices, both in design and manufacturing, to create pieces that stand the test of time. Metzler founded the brand with business partner Sarah Cooper.
Rebecca Henry and Aqua Shabaka
The mother-daughter duo of House of Aama create clothing as a vehicle for Black storytelling. All pieces are manufactured in Los Angeles.
House of Armagh
sean brown
Curves by Sean Brown is an independent design brand that brings a modern twist to homeware.
Matthew Harris
Founded in 2009, the brand Mateo was originally launched as a men’s jewelry label. Harris, a New York-based designer, transitioned to the women’s category in 2014, giving her the opportunity to combine elements of modern art with feminine forms in her work.
swiss blue topaz pair drop earrings
Sade Mims
EDAS was founded in 2015 based on two core values: craftsmanship and innovation. A lifestyle brand that caters to the eclectic soul, Sade Mims’ accessories label thrives on community and consistent storytelling.
Kehinde Martins
Founded in 2020, TOFE was launched to bridge the gap between unique statement pieces and timeless wardrobe staples.
Amy Akudo Iheakanwa
Accessories brand Shekudo is based in Lagos, Nigeria, and Iheakanwa collaborates with local artisans and uses traditional shoemaking practices to create her pieces.
Jane & Tona’s rope slides.
This article was originally published on June 17, 2021.
