Over the past few weeks, brands have flooded their social platforms with solidarity statements and pledges against racism and inequality. From instant donations to organizations dedicated to supporting and amplifying Black voices to long lists of calls to action outlining ways companies can move forward in the fight against racial inequality, it appears companies are taking a step back to educate, listen, and learn in order to implement long-term change. The fashion industry is an industry that has always been criticized for its lack of diversity, and now actual change is being called for beyond simple social posts.
While this is by no means a new issue, there seems to be a renewed energy and determination to fight racial inequality. Perhaps this is because major fashion brands are finally being held accountable for their actions. As Matteo New York’s Matteo commented, “words are just words.” Below, we interviewed five Black fashion designers to ask them what the current changes in the industry actually mean to them, where they see the future going, and what they want from fashion companies and major retailers who have vowed to work hard to diversify the workplace. For many Black designers who have carved their own path in the industry, real change won’t happen until corporate structures and leadership positions are filled with Black creators.
Whether it’s sharing their stories to inspire young Black designers or collaborating with industry thought leaders to support each other, these designers will continue to inspire those around them. If you’re still wondering how you can amplify Black creative voices, below are some great insights on how you can make a real difference.
Photo: Vicky Forshee “I think the calls for racial equality are different than they were before. So is the global awareness of the injustices that black people suffer at the hands of the police. Unfortunately, some of the recent pledges and commitments are vague, ambiguous and will be difficult to verify in the long run. That’s what this is all about. On the last point, I hope I’m wrong. I’m part of “In the Black”. It’s a global group of designers who are uniting our creative community – hairdressers, factory and warehouse owners, model agents, black designers – to share and connect with each other our vast and diverse expertise. It’s never easy for independent entrepreneurs to come together, but COVID-19 and Black Lives Matter have inspired us to engage and support each other. This is an important change for the creative mindset. Creatively, I intend to move forward at a slower pace, with the same vision. My collections have always had a celebratory designer leisurewear vibe. For Gremaud, what he expects from other brands amid this change is simple: honesty, support and community. Photo: Courtesy of BYCHARI “While the issues currently being discussed nationally are not new, there seems to be a renewed energy in the fight against racism and inequality. It’s refreshing to see people of all backgrounds taking action and calling for change – not just individuals, but brands and businesses as well. That’s really powerful! This is an ‘all in’ effort, so let’s keep the momentum going! I’ve always been proud of my Jamaican roots and proud to be a Black woman entrepreneur. Encouraging fellow businesswomen, especially BIPOC, has always been a priority of mine. The road to success inevitably has discouraging moments, but it comes with a strong community and peer support. [are] It’s invaluable. I hope this change removes barriers for young people and Black women in all industries. I can’t wait to see more BIPOC celebrated in business and the arts.
“I have never felt more motivated to support organizations that help young people in need. While giving back has always been a part of my work, going forward I will be focusing on emerging nonprofits that support youth and the Black community, such as Black Girls Code, Girl Trek, and The Loveland Foundation. It’s so inspiring to see brands supporting Black-owned businesses and actively standing up against inequality. It’s important to always remain vigilant and continue to show support for BIPOC – never let up. It’s also important that all businesses that promise to be better and more diverse actually follow through on those promises. I am endlessly grateful for all the love and support BYCHARI has received recently. Sending you all so much love, now and always!”
Photo: Courtesy of Carly Cushnie “I hope this brings change. I expect brands to speak up and use their platforms. What’s important now is for brands to take action beyond social media posts. Brands now need to take steps to diversify their workforces at all levels and show us all how they can employ, support and listen to Black creators when developing their marketing campaigns and brand messaging. When I was growing up, there were very few women of color at the head of design houses or in prominent positions in the fashion world. Without notable role models like me, it was difficult to aspire to success. To me, real change is continuing to move this needle forward by appointing more people of color to leadership positions, giving our community the platform and ability they need, and elevating and nurturing young Black talent. I feel it’s my role to set an example for young men and women like me around the world. “My mission is to inspire, nurture and mentor young talent, to use my voice to share my own and others’ stories, and to ensure that our community is represented in important conversations — whether that be in public media or within my team. I am committed to continuing to advocate and represent people of color in my brand messaging and content, as well as supporting other Black creators in the industry. I believe that it is the big fashion groups and brands that dictate the direction of the industry as a whole. I want to see more people of color appointed to leadership positions within these companies, both on the creative and corporate side, because I believe that is when change will really start to happen globally in our industry. “Photo: Courtesy of Mateo “Frankly, for me, the pledges from these brands mean nothing until they are actually acted upon. Simply put, words are just words. Big retailers and fashion companies need to be careful about long-term solutions. For example, these companies need to seriously consider who they hire for their most senior executive positions. Real change will not happen unless they look internally. Many of the companies that are posting job openings mean nothing. They need to change their board of directors. The board of directors needs to reflect the world we live in today: a multi-racial, multi-cultural world. That is the root of solving this problem for these companies. If you look at the rosters of all the major companies, you rarely see even one Black or Latino person on these boards. That means a predominantly white board of directors is speaking and making decisions without any real experience of Black culture. We have been in this situation before, and it will never truly change until everyone is treated equally. The motto of our country is “One Nation, Out of Plurality.” This is something I live by, it means we are all one. We have people from all walks of life in our country, which is multi-racial, but in this vast and diverse world, we are just people. We are just one. That is really all there is to it. ” Photo: Courtesy of Chantel Davis “The last few weeks have been a time for most people of color, maybe even their whole lives, where they’ve been thrown against the wall and just haven’t been able to get past it and get to a certain place in life. Before I was a designer, I was a model for Wilhelmina in Miami for three years. I’ve been constantly told in the industry, ‘You’re not black enough,’ or ‘too black.’ I even shot ads for magazines where I was supposed to be on the cover, and they were pretty blatant, for being too ethnic or too black. To me, this has been going on for years and generations, but it has to start somewhere. When it comes to the fashion industry, I have a lot of black friends and black model friends, and we’ve faced issues just because of our skin color or tone, but I’m so excited about what’s happening now. I’m happy that people are realizing that black lives matter and that we need to speak up for black lives, but at the same time, we need inclusivity and diversity. That way, in any business, whether it’s fashion, creative, modeling, you can absorb diverse ideas and create synergy. When you have a lot of ideas from different backgrounds, things become more exciting.” Jamaica is multicultural and our motto is “One Nation Out of Diversity.” What we are seeing in the United States right now is that diversity is emerging and we need to embrace it. We can’t be stuck in the past. We need to move forward and realize that we are all part of a whole. So I’m glad to see people speaking out and standing up. I’m upset and sad because I can relate and empathize with so many people on so many levels, but I know that once we get through this pandemic there will be a better reality and a new normal. We need to make sure that we move forward as a race and as a culture.
“As far as brands making statements, this is [systemic]This didn’t happen overnight. It was the result of one boss following another boss following another boss and so on. But that doesn’t mean you should continue doing this. Make the decision to break this cycle and you will create more synergy as you move forward. Step into roles where you can make a difference and ask yourself, “How can I really make a difference?” And make a difference by changing the status quo. Most of us need change right now. We can’t all be on the same page. Finally, let go of your fears. Keep calling people to your voice. This is what creates a movement.
Top photo: Courtesy of Carly Cushnie
Want to read more stories like this?
28 Racial Justice Organizations to Support
7 Black-Owned Brand Founders Discuss the Need for Change in the Beauty Industry
Aurora James talks about the 15 Percent Pledge and why it’s more important than ever
