Clothing retailers like Zara, Forever 21, and H&M produce cheap, fashionable clothing to meet the needs of young consumers. But fast fashion has a huge impact on the environment. According to the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP), the industry is the second largest consumer of water and accounts for about 10% of global carbon emissions, more than all international air and maritime shipping combined. Unfortunately, the problems with fast fashion are often overlooked by consumers.
—
What is fast fashion?
The term “fast fashion” has become more prominent in conversations around fashion, sustainability, and environmental awareness. The term describes “cheaply produced and cheaply sold clothing that mimics the latest fashion show looks and makes the most of current trends.”
The fast fashion model is so named because it involves the rapid design, production, distribution and marketing of clothing, which means retailers can stock a greater variety of products in greater quantities and consumers can enjoy more fashion and product differentiation at lower prices.
The term was first coined in the early 1990s when Zara arrived in New York. The term “fast fashion” was coined by The New York Times to describe Zara’s mission to make clothes from design to retail in just 15 days. Some of the big players in the fast fashion industry are Zara, Uniqlo, Forever 21, and H&M.
The dark side of fast fashion
According to an analysis by Business Insider, fashion production accounts for 10% of the world’s total carbon emissions, the same as the European Union. Fashion production depletes water sources and pollutes rivers and streams, while 85% of all textiles are discarded each year. Washing clothes alone releases 500,000 tons of microfibers into the ocean each year, the equivalent of 50 billion plastic bottles.
According to a 2018 report by Quantis International, the three main contributors to the industry’s global pollution impact are dyeing and finishing (36%), yarn preparation (28%) and fibre production (15%). The report also found that fibre production has the greatest impact on freshwater withdrawals (water diverted or withdrawn from surface or groundwater sources) and ecosystem quality from cotton cultivation, while the dyeing and finishing, yarn preparation and fibre production stages have the greatest impact on resource depletion as they are energy-intensive processes based on fossil fuel energy.
According to the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change, emissions from textile manufacturing alone are predicted to surge by 60% by 2030.
The time it takes for a product to move through the supply chain from design to purchase is called the “lead time.” In 2012, Zara was able to design, produce, and deliver a new garment in two weeks; Forever 21 in six weeks, and H&M in eight weeks. As a result, the fashion industry produces a tremendous amount of waste.
This story is funded by readers like you
Our nonprofit newsroom offers climate coverage free of charge and supports advertising. Your one-time or monthly donation supports our work, expands our reach, and plays a vital role in maintaining our editorial independence.
About EO | Mission Statement | Impact and Scope | Contribute
You might also like: 9 Important Statistics About Fast Fashion
Fast fashion and its impact on the environment
1. Water
The environmental impacts of fast fashion include the depletion of non-renewable resources, greenhouse gas emissions, and the use of large amounts of water and energy. The fashion industry is the second largest consumer of water in the world, requiring approximately 700 gallons of water to produce one cotton shirt and 2,000 gallons to produce one pair of jeans. Business Insider also warns that textile dyeing is the second largest water polluter in the world, as leftover water from the dyeing process is often dumped into ditches, streams, and rivers.
2. Microplastics
Additionally, brands use synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon, and acrylic, which take hundreds of years to biodegrade. A 2017 report by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) estimated that 35% of microplastics (tiny pieces of plastic that do not biodegrade) in the ocean come from washing synthetic fibers such as polyester.
According to the 2015 documentary “The True Cost,” the world consumes approximately 80 billion new garments each year, a 400% increase from consumption 20 years ago. Currently, the average American generates 82 pounds of textile waste each year. Leather production requires large amounts of feed, land, water, and fossil fuels to raise livestock. Additionally, the tanning process is one of the most toxic in the entire fashion supply chain, as the chemicals used to tan leather (including mineral salts, formaldehyde, coal tar derivatives, and various oils and dyes) are not biodegradable and pollute water sources.
3. Energy
The production of plastic fibres into textiles is an energy-intensive process that requires large amounts of petroleum and releases volatile particulate matter and acids such as hydrogen chloride. Furthermore, the cotton used in many fast fashion products is not environmentally friendly to produce either. The pesticides thought to be necessary for cotton cultivation are harmful to farmers’ health.
To combat this waste caused by fast fashion, more sustainable fabrics that can be used in clothing include wild silk, organic cotton, linen, hemp and lyocell.
You might also be interested in: How to identify fast fashion brands and which ones to avoid
The social impact of fast fashion
Fast fashion doesn’t just have a huge impact on the environment. In fact, the industry also creates social problems, especially in developing countries. According to the non-profit organization Remake, 80% of apparel is made by young women between the ages of 18 and 24. A 2018 US Department of Labor report found evidence of forced and child labor in the fashion industry in countries including Argentina, Bangladesh, Brazil, China, India, Indonesia, the Philippines, Turkey and Vietnam. Rapid production means that sales and profits take precedence over human welfare.
In 2013, an eight-story factory building housing several garment factories collapsed in Dhaka, Bangladesh, killing 1,134 workers and injuring more than 2,500. “The garment industry has always been capital-light and labor-intensive,” writes Annie Radner Linden in her project, “Dissecting the Fast Fashion Industry.”
In her book No Logo, Naomi Klein argues that developing countries are viable for the clothing industry because of “cheap labor, heavily reduced taxes, and loose laws and regulations.” According to The True Cost, one in six people worldwide work in some aspect of the fashion industry, making it the most labor-dependent industry in the world. These developing countries are also less likely to comply with environmental regulations. China, for example, is a major producer of fast fashion, but is notorious for land degradation, air pollution, and water pollution.
You might also like: The Dangers of Sweatshops
Is slow fashion the solution?
Slow fashion is a widespread reaction to fast fashion and its environmental impact, calling for the brakes to be put on overproduction, overly complicated supply chains and mindless consumption. It advocates for manufacturing that respects people, the environment and animals.
The World Resources Institute recommends that companies need to design, test and invest in business models that reuse clothes and maximise their useful life. To address the damage caused by fast fashion, the United Nations has launched the Alliance for Sustainable Fashion, which aims to “disrupt environmentally and socially destructive fashion practices”.
Also see: What is Slow Fashion and how can you join the movement?
One way consumers are cutting down on fast fashion consumption is by buying from second-hand sellers such as California-based ThredUp Inc. and Poshmark. Consumers send unwanted clothes to these websites, where people buy them for less than their original price. Another solution is clothing rentals, such as Rent the Runway and Gwynnie Bee in the U.S., Girl Meets Dress in the U.K., and Mud Jeans, a Dutch company that leases organic jeans that can be stored, exchanged and returned.
Other retailers, such as Adidas, are experimenting with personalized gear to reduce returns, increase customer satisfaction and reduce inventory, while Ralph Lauren has announced that it will use 100% sustainably sourced key materials by 2025.
Governments need to be more proactive in tackling the harmful effects of the fashion industry: UK ministers have rejected a report by MPs to address the environmental impact of fast fashion, while French President Emmanuel Macron has struck a deal with 150 brands to make the fashion industry more sustainable.
The best advice for reducing the environmental impact of fast fashion comes from Patsy Perry, Senior Lecturer in Fashion Marketing at the University of Manchester: “Less is always more.”
Feature image by EO Photographer Chin Leong Teo
How can you contribute to a more sustainable planet?
🗳️ Vote for Climate Action: Exercise your democratic right by supporting candidates and policies that prioritize climate change mitigation and environmental protection. Stay up to date with Earth.Org’s election coverage.
👣 Reduce your carbon footprint: Make conscious choices to reduce your carbon footprint by choosing renewable energy sources, conserving energy at home, taking public transportation or carpooling, and embracing sustainable practices like recycling and composting.
💰 Support environmental organizations: Work with organizations like Earth.Org and its NGO partners to educate the public about environmental problems and solutions, support environmental protection efforts, hold those responsible accountable, and advocate for effective environmental solutions. Your support can strengthen their efforts and drive positive change.
🌱 Adopt sustainable habits: Make sustainable choices in your daily life: reduce single-use plastics, choose eco-friendly products, prioritise a plant-based diet to reduce meat consumption, choose sustainable fashion and transportation – even small changes can have a big impact.
💬 Speak up, get involved and educate others: Spread awareness about the climate crisis and the importance of environmental stewardship. Join the conversation, share information and inspire others to take action. Together, let’s create a global movement for a sustainable future.
🪧 Support climate activists: Show your support for activists on the front lines of climate action. Join peaceful protests, rallies, and marches, or join online campaigns to raise awareness and demand policy change. By amplifying activists’ voices, you’ll help build a stronger movement for climate justice and a sustainable future.
For more actionable steps, please see our “What can you do?” page.
This story is funded by readers like you
Our nonprofit newsroom offers climate coverage free of charge and supports advertising. Your one-time or monthly donation supports our work, expands our reach, and plays a vital role in maintaining our editorial independence.
About EO | Mission Statement | Impact and Scope | Contribute
