The relationship between forests and fashion has not traditionally been at the center of sustainability discussions, but recent reports of intensive deforestation for material production are changing that relationship. Here we explore some of the main drivers of deforestation in this sector.
The hidden impact of material production on our forests
It’s not immediately obvious how fashion will affect our forests. At least, it’s not as obvious as the impact on things like agriculture. This makes it easy for brands and organizations to hide behind opaque supply chains, and consumer demand for improvement is non-existent compared to modern forests. More prominent sustainability issues such as recycling and animal welfare. However, many of the raw materials we rely on for fashion are derived from plants or their pulp, meaning that fashion and forests are intrinsically linked.
Materials like viscose, lyocell, and natural rubber are derived from trees, so it’s easy to understand how they affect them, but we’ll talk more about that later, but other types of The production of materials also causes deforestation. For example, both cotton and leather are major drivers of land clearing for plantations and cattle grazing in forests, including the Amazon. In fact, The Fashion Pact suggests that “the vast majority of fashion materials are sourced in or near deforested areas.”
Cutting down trees to make way for fast fashion
In April 2024, the NGO Earthsight revealed the results of a year-long study on cotton production in Brazil’s Cerrado region. This region is highly biodiverse, with deforestation increasing by 43% in 2023. The report indicated that there was illegal deforestation, land grabbing, and cotton-related violence. Production has soared, with H&M and Inditex’s suppliers exporting most of their “contaminated cotton.” “Everyone knows the impact that soybeans and beef have had on Brazil’s forests, but the impact of cotton has received little attention. But this crop has proliferated in recent decades and has become an environmental disaster. “There are,” said Sam Lawson, director of Earthsight.
Part of the reason cotton production has become more lucrative in recent decades is thanks to fast fashion and overconsumption. We buy more clothing than ever before, but the materials for them have to come from somewhere. WWF estimates that half of all textile products are made from cotton. As the demand for a crop increases, so does the incentive to clear land to grow it, even if it is illegal.
What happens when land is cleared for monoculture?
When land is cleared for plantations, whether for the cultivation of cotton or trees for the production of man-made cellulose fibers, forests with a variety of plants and all kinds of organisms are replaced by rows of single plant or tree species. and columns. Grow them as quickly as possible so they can be used for material production. These are called monocultures and are bad news for biodiversity.
This form of mass agriculture, aimed at mass consumption, causes soil erosion and promotes the use of harmful pesticides to protect vast swaths of a single plant species that are vulnerable to insects. When the natural habitat of native species is taken away, there is no place for native species to thrive, and biodiversity is greatly reduced on monocultured land.
As the environmental group Canopy explains, the effects are even more severe when those forests are old. “Systems that have existed for hundreds or thousands of years are disrupted, causing ripple effects that affect flora, fauna, and even mineral content.” In the soil, in river flows. In some cases, it can lead to a dramatic loss of biodiversity and abundant wildlife, and even local extinction of endangered species. It can also displace people who call forests home and depend on their plants and animals for food and livelihoods. ”
The role of man-made cellulose fibers in deforestation
Man-made cellulose fibers (MMCFs), such as viscose, lyocell, and modal, are made from dissolved wood pulp. This means that we rely on trees for raw materials. As a result, Canopy estimates that approximately 300 million trees are cut down annually for manufacturing. MMCF for fashion apparel.
The impact of that demand is alarming. Fashion for Good suggests that around 30% of wood for viscose is sourced from endangered forests, and Greenpeace’s 2023 report reveals that the world’s largest pulp companies and The study highlights the link between deforestation and the deforestation of tropical rainforests, which are now under threat. It is home to species such as the Bornean orangutan. However, there is also evidence that the lands of indigenous communities are being destroyed or degraded by wood pulp monoculture plantations, and that “contamination of water and soil by chemicals used in plantation forests and during pulp processing is “Unless the process is appropriate, it will promote habitat loss and species extinction.” 100 percent closed loop,” says McKinsey.
How leather contributes to forest degradation
Many leather producers have long argued that because leather is a byproduct of the meat industry, it has no impact on cattle farming or the conversion of forests such as Brazil and the Amazon into pasture for animal grazing. I’ve been doing it. However, this is not entirely true. This is because leather is now an important source of profit and a by-product (or desirable secondary good). This means tanneries, suppliers and brands can use their purchasing power to influence cattle farming and its association with deforestation.
The leather industry is one of the most well-known industries for the link between fashion and deforestation, and according to Textile Exchange, brands are being asked by consumers to ensure their leathers are free from deforestation. They say they are under pressure. Despite this, “Brands are finding it difficult to engage with suppliers and map their supply chains well enough to identify the source of raw materials, much less take action.” ” This continuing challenge is due to supply chain links with leather exporters known to be involved in Amazon deforestation, with at least 50 brands including Zara and Nike claiming to be indirect suppliers. This was demonstrated in a 2021 report by the Guardian. This only highlights the urgent need for full transparency throughout the supply chain.
What is the industry doing to stop deforestation?
It’s easy to read all this and feel at a loss as to what to do about such a massive problem. However, there are people and organizations working to improve the situation.
Good On You’s assessment takes deforestation into account, and our analysts believe that to avoid or minimize deforestation through the use of fabrics associated with deforestation, such as leather, rubber, metals, precious stones, and MMCF. We take into account the steps brands are taking to We also expect brands to have policies in place with clear implementation strategies for all fibers at risk.
Elsewhere in the industry, Textile Exchange and the Leather Working Group have partnered to create a call to action on deforestation-free leather, urging brands to ensure their supply chains are free of deforestation and land conversion by 2030. We are asking you to commit to sourcing cowhide leather. The program also asks brands to commit to respecting human rights along the leather supply chain, including the human rights of indigenous peoples and local communities.
Meanwhile, Canopy is focusing on endangered species and forest loss and has launched the CanopyStyle campaign to engage brands on these issues. The program also aims to promote and develop next-generation solutions for MMCF production that do not use wood pulp, such as textiles or agricultural waste. Canopy also ranks the global viscose industry by ranking its progress in eliminating wood from ancient and endangered forests from its supply chains and how it is innovating and working to conserve it. We also produce The Hot Button Report, which holds producers accountable.
The bottom line is that a healthy planet requires healthy forests. They absorb billions of tons of carbon dioxide, are essential for maintaining biodiversity, and help regulate rainfall, to name a few important factors. That’s why it’s so important that brands and supply chain actors take responsibility for their impact, work to reduce it and be transparent about their practices.
