A new restaurant and wine bar on W 54th Street brings a delicious fusion of Latin American and European cuisine to Hell’s Kitchen, weaving tapas into New York City life. Chef Harold Brenton of Tapas 54; Photo: Dashiell Allen
Led by Chef Harold Breton and Owner Joel Ogando, Tapas 54 combines traditional Spanish tapas with Dominican flavors and cooking techniques. It’s a new culinary philosophy that Harold calls “urban tapas.”
Harold, a native New Yorker whose family is from the Dominican Republic, said, “When I was a kid, when my parents had guests over, I would make them small meals with cheese, salami, crackers, and small snacks.” Ta. “Growing up here in New York City, there were a lot of dishes that I enjoyed. So I said, ‘Let’s turn these into tapas and shareable plates with a more urban approach.'”
Pulpo is one of Tapas 54’s signature dishes. Photo provided
Tapas, which originated in Spain, are small plates served on top of wine glasses and served with wine. Tapas 54’s menu is influenced by a combination of “street food and mom’s home-cooked dishes” and is expertly paired with wine, he added. Harold and his staff make all of their recipes from scratch, including the breads.
Salt cod and crab croquettes are influenced by typical Dominican dishes masa de cangrejo (crab meat) and bacalao (dried and salted cod). Harold piles pulpo (octopus), a traditional Spanish dish, next to potatoes, cherry tomatoes, and fennel so that the plate looks like the bottom of the ocean. Tapas 54 takes over the premises that was home to Botanica for decades. Photo: Phil O’Brien
Don’t be afraid to ask him for wine pairings. Along with cod croquettes, he recommends Nora Albariño, made from Spanish white grapes. Because “both flavors are very distinct.” [but] They don’t compete with each other. ”
Botanica, a shop that sells religious paraphernalia, remained open at the same address until March 2022, when longtime owner Emilia “Caillou” passed away.
Located just west of Ninth Avenue at W54th Street, this space is bright and intimate, secluded from the hustle and bustle of the city, and windows in the front panel bring fresh air inside. A soundtrack of Latin rock, salsa, bachata, flamenco and contemporary Spanish music sets the mood.
“My passion for cooking comes from being able to do what’s in my head and share it with others,” Harold says. This is something he has been doing for the past 15 years, opening and developing menus for numerous restaurants, primarily in Upper Manhattan and the Bronx. This will be his first venture in Hell’s Kitchen.
Harold studied at the French Culinary Institute (now the Culinary Education School) in New York City, where he learned from famous chefs like Alain Cyac. So he started thinking about the similarities and contrasts between European and Latin American cooking methods. For example, in France they braise meat, in the Dominican Republic they braise meat, etc.
His dishes combine both knowledges, such as fresh pasta with coconut-based pistachio alfredo sauce, an adaptation of an Italian family recipe passed down to him by a friend.
Tapas 54’s walls are lined with wine. Photo: Dashiell Allen
“There’s a lot of history in Hell’s Kitchen, and there’s a lot more history to be made,” Harold said. “It’s a great community. I have nothing but good things to say about everyone I’ve met so far, who have wished us well or patronized us and come by for wine and snacks. yeah.”
