Recently, I have been outraged on a daily basis by the blatant racial insensitivity, the apparent lack of diverse staff, and the lack of awareness of how systemic racism impacts every aspect of our lives. During our collective confrontation with police brutality and systemic racism, the fashion industry has had to reflect on the need to make serious changes to the industry. Of course, change is happening, but as consumers, we can help move this movement forward by taking a step back and reflecting on how we are contributing.
Of course, we can’t control what designers send down the runway. And yet, one of the most fundamentally underrated ways to be an ally to the Black community (and any community, really) is with your money. While it’s so important to recognize the contributions designers like Dapper Dan have made to the industry, we can’t think of a better way to appreciate and support Black artistry than by shopping from Black-owned businesses and designers. Scroll on to find your favorite designers to shop.
Aurora James of Brother Veries
When I first came across the brand Brother Vellies on my feed, my heart skipped a beat. I saw on social media a woman who looked just like me (a rare sight) wearing these amazing black feather heels. From that moment on, I was hooked, and for good reason: Founded by Aurora James, the brand is committed to sustainability and works with artisans in South Africa, Ethiopia, Kenya, and Morocco to create their handmade shoes.
But the compassion doesn’t stop at the manufacturing process. James also founded the Fifteen Percent Pledge, a non-profit that encourages our favorite major retailers to stock more Black-owned businesses. Essentially, whenever I’m big on philanthropy and need shoes, I donate all my money to Brother Vellies.
Brother Veries
Joyful Rebellion Stell 65mm Satin Mules
Laquan Smith
(Image credit: George Pimentel/WireImage)
Remember that iconic blazer look Beyoncé wore on her last On the Run II tour? It’s the work of Queens-born designer LaQuan Smith. His glamorous and sexy designs have caught the attention of celebrities like Cardi B, Rihanna, and Jennifer Lopez. But can you blame them? Smith has a knack for creating clothes that not only Beyoncé, but the whole world wants to wear when they’re feeling good. And that’s true talent.
Laquan Smith
Fitted jacket
Maximillian Davis for Ferragamo
(Image courtesy of Launchmetrics Spotlight)
One of the most anticipated creative director appointments in recent years was Maximillian Davis’ arrival at Ferragamo. It’s rare for a British-Trinidadian-Jamaican to reach such a high position in the industry, especially when he takes over just five years after graduating from the London College of Fashion. Yet Davis has made waves at his eponymous brand with his sensual approach to tailoring, and his unique perspective has been reflected in every collection for Ferragamo to date.
Ferragamo
Patent Leather Bodycon Mini Dress
Telfar Clemens
(Image by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images)
Telfar Clemens may be known for his iconic Bushwick Birkin shopping tote that sells out in seconds, but Clemens was pushing social boundaries by challenging norms of black and gender identity long before his bags became a popular commodity. Now a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund recipient and with special collections collaborating with Ugg and Converse, Clemens’ approach to unisex, affordable designer clothing remains the ethos of the brand, making him a designer for literally everyone.
Telfer
Telfar small duffle chocolate
Virgil Abloh in Off-White
(Image credit: Matthew Sperzel/GC Images)
Though Abloh passed away in 2021, his legacy lives on. The designer made waves with luxury streetwear label Off-White and further expanded his influence with his role as menswear artistic director at Louis Vuitton. Not only did he honor the brand’s identity when designing, but both felt like a reflection of his own experience as a black man and the environment that shaped him. To me, that reflection in itself is breathtaking.
off white
54MM MEMPHIS CAT EYE SUNGLASSES
Olivier Rousteing for Balmain
(Image by Pierre Hsu/Getty Images)
Maybe it’s just me, but the 2019 Grammy Awards outfits really solidified my love for Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing. Who isn’t still obsessed with Beyoncé’s iconic look, Jorja Smith’s stunning gold sequin outfit, and Kylie Jenner’s avant-garde look? I know he’s been the creative director for quite some time (meaning I’d completely forgotten about him), but something about the documentary Wonder Boy made me fall in love with him all over again. Maybe it’s his couture, maybe it’s his popular bags, or maybe it’s just him. Either way, this is a brand and designer to stick with for the long haul.
Balmain
Buttoned wool mini dress
Sade Mims of Edusa
Some of today’s best designers aren’t attached to major fashion houses. They operate on their own terms. Sade Mims of Edas is one of them. Founded in Brooklyn in 2013, the brand was Mims’ love letter to jewelry, but has since expanded beyond just a selection of jewellery. In fact, the brand’s sleek leather bags, beautiful beaded hats and unique home goods are what have made the designer a favourite among artists and editors. Mims’ brand is sure to become your new favourite.
Theresa Ebagua of Chelsea Paris
As any fashion editor can attest, good shoes make all the difference. And no other brand makes them like Chelsea Paris. Founded in 2012 by Nigerian-born, Los Angeles and London-based Black shoe designer Teresa Ebagua, Chelsea Paris makes pieces worn by icons like Beyoncé and Lupita Nyong’o. But if you’re wondering why you haven’t heard of her brand yet, it’s because the designer took a three-year hiatus to reinvent her approach to design and her heritage. If you can come back from a hiatus and make shoes that any editor would swoon for, you’ve got a knack for it.
Felisha Noel by Fe Noel
(Image courtesy of Fe Noel)
Imagine yourself soaking up the sunshine and sipping lemonade in Positano, Italy. What would you be wearing? Preferably Fe Noel. The Brooklyn-born, Grenadian womenswear designer specializes in collections that scream, “book a flight right now.” But more than that, Noel is known for collaborating with fellow artists to create work that reclaims the beauty of Black identity that has been erased in the grand narrative of history. What could be more beautiful than that?
Fae Noel
Juliet one piece swimsuit
Nasrin Jean-Baptiste of Petit Khoury
We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again: Petit Kouraj is a fashion crowd favorite. But what is it that makes them so beloved? It’s all down to founder Nasrin Jean-Baptiste’s intention for the brand. Born in London to Haitian immigrant parents, Jean-Baptiste cut her teeth in the fashion industry in styling before founding her handwoven bag company in 2019. But this is more than just a bag brand; giving back is woven into Petit Kouraj’s DNA. Every bag is crafted from organic cotton, leather, and rayon by a Haitian women-led organization that employs local artisans. It’s wearable art.
Petit Kouraji
Mini Fringe Top Handle Bag
Rebecca Henry and Akua Shabaka of House of Aama
Fashion is all about storytelling. At least, that’s the approach that mother-daughter duo Rebecca Henry and Akua Shabaka of House of Aama take to design. Founded in 2015, the brand is known for upcycling vintage and deadstock fabrics to create unique pieces. It’s not just the duo’s sustainable approach to design that’s interesting; they also use historical research and archives to explore and pay tribute to African migration in various collections, resulting in pieces that embody uniqueness.
Ama’s House
Eggshell button-up top
Theophilio’s Edvin Thompson
Whatever the art form, it takes a certain amount of alchemy to blend inspiration from different places, cultures, and ideas to create something entirely new. Fashion designer Edvin Thompson has already mastered that with his brand, Theophilio. Founded in 2016, the label is, in his own words, a “wearable biography,” paying tribute to his childhood in Jamaica, the progressive culture of New York City, and what’s happening right now. But what makes Thompson’s work so special is his unique perspective and the way he blends his experiences with upcycled fabrics to create unique pieces. Maybe it’s alchemy, maybe it’s magic, maybe it’s just Edvin Thompson’s personality.
Theophilio
Leather A-line maxi skirt
Brandon Blackwood
(Image by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for Glamour)
For most fashion houses, it can take decades to achieve that “cult status.” For Brooklyn-born designer Brandon Blackwood, it took just seven years. Of course, gaining a following didn’t just magically happen overnight. The brand is relatively small and only known among the fashion community until the release of its “End Systemic Racism” tote bag in 2020. That small bag may have catapulted Blackwood to international acclaim, but it’s the designer’s ability to continue creating buzzworthy pieces that keeps the brand in the spotlight. It’s expanded its handbag lineup and launched eyewear, footwear, and outerwear lines, all of which point to bigger things to come for the brand.
Brandon Blackwood
Valentia ruched leather chain shoulder bag
Christopher John Rogers
(Image credit: Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
For those in the know, it should come as no surprise that designer Christopher John Rogers has taken the industry by storm. Born and raised in Baton Rouge, Louisiana, the designer has captured people’s attention with his bold Southern influences in all of his colorful designs. Not only did he win the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award in 2019, but his collections since have been consistently jaw-dropping. In many ways, Rogers’ clothes are the type of clothing I would like to see more of in the fashion industry in the future, and that is that his work pushes boundaries. His work is so incredible and uncompromising that the world will no longer see designers by the color of their skin, but by the beautiful things they choose to create.
Christopher John Rogers
Striped ribbed wool-blend midi shirt dress
This post was originally published earlier and has since been updated.
