The much-anticipated return of the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show after a five-year hiatus will begin streaming on Amazon Prime today, September 26th. This year’s show will showcase the work of 20 talented creatives across a range of fields, including fashion, film, design, music and visual arts, hailing from vibrant cities such as Bogota, Lagos, London and Tokyo. One of the participating designers is Bubu Ogishi, founder of IAMSIGO and a passionate advocate of African fashion by Africans. Ogishi’s collection for the show reflects her commitment to celebrating African philosophies, fabrics and techniques, while challenging traditional perceptions of African brands. Model Mayowa Nicholas, an accounting student turned catwalk gracing the globe, will be featured prominently in the show, showcasing Bubu’s designs.
Ebony had the opportunity to speak with both BuBu and Mayowa to learn more about their respective backgrounds and experiences working for Victoria’s Secret.
Mayowa Nicholas. Pictured: Sophia Malamute for Victoria’s Secret
Born in Nigeria, Mayowa never considered modeling as a career. Like many black children in the country, she was encouraged to focus on her education and pursue a traditional job. Growing up with a single mother, Mayowa considered accountancy a viable option to ensure financial stability. However, her perspective changed when she was approached on the street to participate in an Elite Models modeling contest. Despite feeling that she was not up to par with the professional models, she decided to go for it and ultimately won the contest. This unexpected win prompted her to travel to China to secure a modeling contract, where she experienced culture shock and faced discrimination. Nevertheless, Mayowa persevered and was selected along with 14 other girls for the contract. Making the difficult decision to leave her school and family behind, she traveled to Paris and walked in Schiaparelli’s first show at Couture Fashion Week.
A few years later, while in New York, Mayowa’s agent gave her the opportunity to audition for Victoria’s Secret. She was nervous at first and turned it down, but she got the chance the following year. Unfortunately, she encountered visa issues when she tried to travel to China for the show. However, the following year, Mayowa not only got the chance to walk in the Victoria’s Secret show, but she also had the pleasure of having her mother there to witness her success in New York. Parents of those involved in creative fields often can’t truly understand the work until they see it firsthand. Mayowa’s mother proudly shared her daughter’s achievements with family and friends through group chats and social media.
Image: Victoria’s Secret Sophia Malamute
Designer Bubu Ogishi started her career with a passion for fiber studies, materiality studies and ancestral techniques. Growing up in different countries like Nigeria, Ghana and UK and going to school in Paris, she witnessed the rich culture and abundance of fabrics and materials in Africa, especially Nigerian weddings and events. This experience led her to explore fiber techniques, how to read techniques and the actual materiality of textiles. Going to school in Ghana further made her realize that these techniques are common across different countries like English speaking, French speaking and Portuguese speaking, even if they are called differently.
Ogishi found it fascinating to observe how weaving techniques are executed in different styles and with personal variations, such as Nigerian Ashakie, Ghanaian Kente, and Heetokita. Understanding these similarities and differences has allowed her to shape her work and showcase the intricate study of fibers and the magic that can be created by hand, even in overlooked places. Bubu’s inspiration often comes from ancient, historical, and mythological stories, and she believes that retelling these stories can decolonize the mind and introduce new ideas. The world has often favored certain stories as true and ignored others. Bubu aims to shed light on untold stories and utilize language as a material to bring these ideas to life through her craft.
Image: Victoria’s Secret Sophia Malamute
Bubu initially didn’t respond to Victoria’s Secret’s call, but later decided to pick up the phone and have a conversation with the whole team. The energy during the discussion was cohesive and there was consensus among all involved, something Bubu values when collaborating with others. This project was an exciting opportunity for Bubu to continue telling a story he’s been passionate about for years.
Bubu saw this as an opportunity to share her story with Victoria’s Secret, especially the concept of Victoria and her connection to mythological deities. She aims to tell African mythological stories through her traditions, country and continent. Extensive research has been done into the cosmological and mythological stories of Nigeria and other parts of Africa.
The collection takes inspiration from Roman and Greek mythology, with a particular focus on the goddess Nike. Bubu’s goal is to showcase the stories of 10-11 male and female deities, including the god of war, the god of space and time, and the god of water. The European Edo mythology, which originated in Nigeria, is a major influence on the concept. The overall concept revolves around showcasing female divinity through the idea of goddesses, represented by secret stones in the jewelry. Each deity is associated with a specific material, color, and supernatural power. Sourcing and creating the pieces needed to cross the continent.
Mayowa and Bubu had previously worked together, having previously modeled for Bubu at age 16. Reuniting at age 25 was an important and meaningful moment for the pair, marking a full circle in their professional relationship. Throughout the process, the pair had moments of hugging each other, suggesting a strong bond between them. Bubu’s vision for the project also included hairstyles that paid homage to her ancestors, resulting in truly unique and intricate styles never before seen by Victoria’s Secret.
