Photo duo AB+DM helps launch Black-led fashion magazine
Courtesy of Sean Michael Craig
Atlanta natives Ahmad Barber and Donte Morris (aka AB+DM) have rapidly risen to fame in the world of fashion and celebrity photography since partnering four years ago. Their work blends the traditions of couture fashion with where high fashion is headed: socio-cultural inclusivity and artistic freedom.
Known for their mastery of bringing different skin tones to life and giving their subjects an approachable dignity, they have photographed Zendaya and Viola Davis for InStyle, Cardi B for Billboard, Naomi Osaka for Vogue Hong Kong, and Lady Gaga’s House of Gucci cover for The Hollywood Reporter.
Model Maria Borges wears a Sergio Hudson dress on the cover of Black Fashion Fair magazine, photographed by AB+DM. Courtesy of AB+DM
Recently, the two have also stepped into the world of fashion production themselves, as art director and director of photography for Black Fashion Fair. The Black-run print publication, which debuted in February and quickly sold out, is the latest venture from a website of the same name that stylist and consultant Antoine Gregory founded in 2020 to showcase Black fashion designers.
“It was great to be a part of the founding of something that means so much to us. [it] “Generations after us will benefit from this,” says Morris, who helped produce the magazine and photographed two of its three covers. “Everyone on the team wanted to contribute to broadening the idea of what’s possible for black creatives.”
As for how to pull off a shoot, Barber says, “One thing we learned early on was that you need to be professional on set, but you also need to remember to be your authentic self. There are a lot of people who appreciate our ability to get the job done and our ease on set.”
The Hollywood Reporter spoke with AB+DM about their biggest milestones, shooting Zendaya and how their culture has enlightened their photography ambitions.
What was your journey to becoming a Black tastemaker and how has it shaped your view of the world in fashion, art and design?
Donte Morris: We came into this world with very little knowledge other than our research and our experience with the city of Atlanta, so it felt like we were starting from scratch. The best way to describe it is cooking new dishes in old pans. We were able to add our own touch to this new opportunity.
Ahmad Barber: I agree with Donte. More than that, this trip has given us a greater understanding of our importance and our impact. It has sharpened our perspective and allowed us to capture the images we truly want to capture.
A Black Fashion Fair shoot highlighting the work of Sergio Hudson. AB+DM/Black Fashion Fair
What drew you to the craft of photography and creative direction in particular?
AB: For me, it means being involved in creating a visual product: from researching inspiration, to lighting diagrams, costume boards, angle preferences, color tones, image selection, retouching, and the final product.
DM: I was drawn to all of this because it was a form of expression for me. I may not have a lot to say about my particular issues or feelings or whatever, but I can express them through this art form, and it’s still a release.
Can you tell us more about your local backgrounds and the inspiration that led you two to form a duo?
AB: Our partnership and brotherhood comes from community. Of course, as solo photographers we each had different aesthetics, but we always shared a desire to build a creative community.
DM: Ahmad is right! We inspire each other and use that to move forward. It feels like a 1+1=2 scenario… We find that we work much better together than alone. It’s really amazing to see two minds merge into one. It keeps everything fresh.
During the pandemic, we’ve seen AB+DM studios consistently curate some of the fashion world’s most amazing covers for magazines like InStyle, The Hollywood Reporter, Essence, and more. They understand the tradition and future of fashion to create these innovative and original portraits. What has it been like navigating the changes on set during the pandemic?
AB: To be honest, it was totally unexpected. We just had to let go and let God. At some point, we had to stop trying to predict what was going to happen or thinking about what was going to happen and just let it happen. And, of course, when that opportunity arose, we had to do our due diligence and do our part.
DM: I totally agree. It’s been really hard on every set, during the pandemic and even now. You never really know what’s going to happen in terms of testing, talent, etc. Like Ahmad said, we just had to let go and leave it to God. We were able to rely on God’s wisdom to get us through this, something we’ve never experienced before. It helped us so much!
The cover of the new magazine “Black Fashion Fair”. Black Fashion Fair
I love the long-standing, trusted relationships you’ve built with iconic Black talent, seeing you repeatedly photograph stars like Viola Davis, Cardi B, and, most frequently, Zendaya. How have you been able to piggyback off of this feeling and find community in an elite space in fashion?
DM: Yes! It’s so important to be yourself. How you treat your friends and family will be reflected on set. Everything we do is collaborative, so we open the space for everyone to express themselves in their own way and make sure everyone is listened to and informed. That’s what we want too. Everyone has been so kind and welcoming us into their world. We’re so grateful!
AB: Yes, there is a full deck and schedule, as well as a full-on dance party – all socially distanced of course. Part of professionalism and relationship building is truly learning the talent’s preferences, getting the lowdown, and building a solid foundation to evolve as the shoot progresses.
What was your most memorable career collaboration milestone in 2020 and 2021?
AB: We’re kicking off 2020 with, of course, the September cover of Instyle. We’re forever grateful to Lo. [Roach] Thank you for thinking of us. We would also like to thank the InStyle team – Laura Brown, Lina Stone, Lizzie Oppenheimer and Lucy Fox – for believing in us and giving us such a big platform. It was a truly mind-blowing experience to end 2021 with Lady Gaga. She is someone you would never think you would have the option to work with, but the experience of working with her was truly unforgettable for us. We would like to thank Ash Berhamand and Kayla Landrum of The Hollywood Reporter family for this opportunity.
You two are the Art Director and Director of Photography of the first Black-owned magazine to spotlight Black designers and influences in the fashion world. What was it like launching the first print edition of Black Fashion Fair?
AB: We owe our start and vision to Antoine Gregory. We first worked with Antoine in 2020 when we launched the platform with a story featuring Pear Moss that we shot in Atlanta. Of course, the relationship continued from there. When he approached us about the project in 2021, we were immediately on board. I think we knew we had something to say. We had things we wanted to see from ourselves, and we had creators we wanted to collaborate with and highlight. To have that opportunity given to us by BFF and Warby Parker was just an honor. The opportunity to create freely, to give opportunities to our peers, and to leave behind images that will remain in the archives for future generations.
Warby Parker editorial photographed for “Black Fashion Fair.” AB+MD/Black Fashion Fair
DM: We fell in love with fashion and as that love grew, so did our knowledge of designers, glamour artists, and more. Almost everyone’s goal in life is to make a difference, and this is nothing special. Everyone on the BFF team wanted to help shift perspectives, set the table, and expand ideas of what’s possible for Black creators. It was amazing to be a part of establishing something that means so much to us, as it will hopefully benefit generations after us.
Who are your favorite Black designers that you’ve chosen to feature at Black Fashion Fair?
Both: This is a really hard question! To be honest, I can say everyone. I think it was really cool to work with the Sergio Hudson Collection and to have him on set and show him what was going on. We also had the chance to photograph him for the article. That moment was very special for us. Plus, it was a great experience to shoot the historic Pier Moss Couture Collection.
Fashion shoot featuring Pyer Moss at Black Fashion Fair. AB+DM/Black Fashion Fair
What motivates you to continue striving to further Black style stories across all media, from advertising to editorials?
AB: I think the biggest motivation is to create a reference image for our culture, by our culture. We want the next generation to see themselves on these platforms and know that Black luxury, Black glamour, Black couture, Black fashion is still alive and well.
DM: Correct! And there are so many stories to tell. There’s not just one style or method, because all Black creators are working with so many different perspectives and ideas to draw on.
Away from the commercial sphere of the fashion industry, what does the future of high fashion look like for you two?
AB: I think high fashion is free. The lines between high and low, street and couture are becoming very blurred at the moment, and I think that will continue with people not trying to box things in the way they did before.
DM: High fashion is a mood thing! If people think it is, then it is.
This article first appeared in the March 2 issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. Click here to subscribe.
