Gabriela Hearst, who presented her Spring 2021 collection in the French capital, will return to Paris Fashion Week for her Spring 2025 collection.
Ludovic de Saint-Sernin, which showed in New York last February as part of a collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation, and Y/Project, which skipped the fall 2024 runway season to focus on internal investments, are also set to return with a runway show in Paris, according to a tentative calendar released by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de Mode on Monday.
New additions to the official schedule, which runs from September 23rd to October 1st, include Nicolò Pasqualetti, one of the eight finalists for this year’s LVMH Prize, and Alain Paul, the designer who unexpectedly launched his own label last October after 10 years working for brands such as Vetements and Louis Vuitton.
Hearst’s show is scheduled to begin at 1:30pm on September 30th, which will also see the presentation of spring 2025 collections from Stella McCartney, Zimmermann, Sacai, Balenciaga and Pierre Cardin.
Gabriela Hearst Dave Bennett
Hearst thanked the federation for including her on the Paris Fashion Week calendar: “The federation’s international influence and incredible platform for creative expression allow us to pursue long-term developments that combine luxury and sustainability,” she told WWD.
The Uruguay-born, New York-based Hirst finished a busy three-year stint as creative director of Chloe in Paris last year, during which he also worked on developing his own signature brand, which he recently showed at New York Fashion Week.
The most anticipated shows in Paris will likely be Valentino on September 29, when Alessandro Michele makes his catwalk debut at the Roman house, and Dries Van Noten on September 25, the first women’s show without its founder, who retired from the catwalk after his final menswear show last month. His studio team will create his women’s collection for spring 2025.
Among the familiar brands absent from the calendar are Givenchy, which missed its men’s runway season while it awaits its next creative director; Marine Serre, who showed her women’s and men’s collections as guest designers at Pitti Uomo last month; and independent design duo Victoria Feldman and Thomas Berzins, who are closing down operations of their Victoria/Thomas label to focus on collaborations and other design projects.
Off-White and Abellano are also not on the tentative list.
Of the 38 planned presentations, new ones include those by Polish designer Magda Butrym, Vaillant by Paris-born Alice Vaillant, Belgian designer Julie Kegels, Spanish brand Abra and Votres by Israeli designer Yonathan Carmel, semi-finalist of the LVMH Prize 2024. Meanwhile, returning presentations include Aigle, Elliot Emil and Christopher Esber, Grand Prix winner of the 2024 ANDAM Fashion Awards.
The tentative schedule includes a total of 70 shows, starting with Wainscott, Vaquera and CFCL on September 23rd, followed by Chanel, Peter Do, Miu Miu, Lacoste and Louis Vuitton on October 1st.
While Vuitton will officially close Paris Fashion Week as usual, there will be an event for Coperni later that evening: the fashion brand co-founded by Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant has reportedly booked Disneyland Paris for a “complete experience” at the park’s Fantasyland area.
The Fédération de la Haute Couture also announced the participation of emerging brands in the Sphere showroom, with newcomers Weinsant and Abra by Victor Weinsant and returning designers Charles de Vilmorin, Florentina Leitner, Métrepierre, Lucile Thièvre and Paolina Russo.
Valentino by Alessandro Michele, Resort 2025 Courtesy of Valentino/Ola Lindahl
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