51%. According to Lyst, this is the percentage increase in demand for Maison Alaïa items over the past three months. It was little secret that the company was on track to secure a special place among the most desirable brands in 2024, especially after the success of its latest show in New York in September 2024 . With the recently released rankings, it’s now official. Following Miu Miu, Loewe, Prada and Saint Laurent, which took the top spot, Alaia took fifth place, jumping a whopping 12 places and earning the title of most impressive brand revival of the quarter. But beyond the latest stunning collections full of movement and lightness, what is driving this sudden passion for the French house among fashion lovers?
To understand, we have to go back four years to when Pieter Mulier took over as creative director of the house. A new creative director with a solid background, having worked with Belgian-born Raf Simons and built a career at Calvin Klein and Jil Sander. For his first show, FW21, presented in Paris, he wisely chose to pay homage to the late Azzedine Alaïa, who passed away in November 2017, with a sometimes fluid, sometimes flawless look. Featuring a body-hugging, ultra-feminine silhouette, the French-Tunisian designer was world-renowned for his aesthetic. However, Murier has since moved away from the pure Azzedine DNA and has managed to inject his own touch into Alaïa’s tradition, emphasizing the brand’s codes while adding his personal flair. . This very personal touch and the innovations he introduced have now elevated the French house to an exceptional position in the fashion world.
His ballerina flats, released in May 2022, ranked #1 among the most popular and sought-after items this semester. Inspired by traditional Japanese footwear, these flats are designed by Mourie in all versions, including metallic, suede and floral prints. There are only two styles that really stand out. A mesh model and a leather version adorned with small round silver struts. Their big success before them was the Heart Bag, which was worn on the wrists of some of the most influential celebrities. It’s clear that the New York show at the Guggenheim Museum during the last fashion week also left its mark. The collection’s sculptural, swirling costumes matched the Guggenheim Museum’s grand setting and Rihanna’s front-row presence, propelling the Maison Alaïa and its designers into conversations from Paris to New York and beyond.
