Fashion’s most dynamic Black designers have translated Jean-Michel Basquiat’s paintings into wearable art.
In April, Basquiat’s estate opened “King Pleasure,” an exhibition showcasing Basquiat’s work and life, and now the exhibition is introducing a new element: a Basquiat-inspired fashion collection called “Those Who Dress Better.”
Named after Basquiat’s famous line, “He Who Dresses Better Can Accept Christ,” the collection pays tribute to the artist with work from nine fashion brands led by Black designers and creative directors. “He Who Dresses Better,” which was unveiled at a reception on December 7, will be on display as part of the larger King Pleasure exhibition until its closing on January 1.
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Organized by Black Fashion Fair, “Those Who Dress Better” features nine brands: Advisry, Bed on Water, Brandon Blackwood, Hanifa, Head of State, Homage Year, Johnny Nelson, Theophilio and Who Decides War. Some brands have designed clothes specifically for the exhibit, while others have created items that can be purchased on the Black Fashion Fair website.
I think I speak for many Black fashion-loving women when I say I can’t wait to see the show. After perusing the gallery, I asked Black Fashion Fair founder Antoine Gregory how he chose the designers to feature.
“I wanted to be able to collaborate with New York designers who share similar ideas in their own work that are reminiscent of Basquiat,” Gregory said.
“Brandon and [Blackwood]He does amazing work with embroidery and patchwork, and together with Edvin Thompson he has created a fantastic catalogue of Basquiat’s family photographs that the world has never seen before. [Black Fashion Fair] In collaboration with Theofilio [highlighted] I wanted to do that for Basquiat because it’s a portrait of a black family.”
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One word to describe this exhibition: intentional. From the wall panels depicting Basquiat’s family connections to the intricate details the designers used to translate his art onto fabric, everything was thoughtfully crafted.
“Most of the work in here has never been seen before,” Gregory told me as he adjusted one of the exhibits, “This is the first time the family has had an exhibition, and it’s the first time most of his work has been licensed, and these incredibly talented Black designers are the first people to have access to that work.
“How often do you see a Black designer collaborating with an artist at this level? This is unprecedented and I’m so proud,” Gregory continued.
As you walk through the gallery, it becomes clear which of Basquiat’s works inspired each designer’s creations; clothes and jewelry are displayed in the same space as the artworks they reference. Some connections are more obvious than others; Theofilio’s suit jacket, for example, is placed right next to the painting it was inspired by, “CABEZA, 1982.”
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When we asked Bed on Water’s Chanel Campbell about her design process, she explained, “We looked through the pieces that were available, identified which pieces were a little different from the rest of his collection, and selected those to showcase his line of work.”
Campbell contributed two stunning pieces to the collection: a floor-length dress and a two-piece ensemble, and she even wore a custom Basquiat-inspired top to the opening.
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Revisiting the exhibit that recreated Basquiat’s childhood home, I noticed that the Advisory dress was not a work of art but a reference to the wallpaper in the artist’s dining room. [Basquiat’s] “That was the case in the early days,” reveals founder and designer Keith Herron.
“before that [dining] “This room is filled with drawings and doodles from Jean-Michel’s sketchbooks, and in one he wrote, ‘the conveyor belt of life,’ and that stayed with me,” Heron said, explaining that the quote inspired him to incorporate Basquiat’s entire life into his design.
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The opening of “Those Who Dress Better” saw the community come together to celebrate their peers. It was clear to me how much care, talent, and support went into making this experience happen. I watched as designers complimented each other’s work, Gregory made sure each outfit was perfectly placed, and fashion lovers lined up to take in it all. The presentation was a Black fashion night out and it went down in history.
