We look at Black fashion brands presenting collections during New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter ’23, including Heron Preston, LaQuan Smith, and Tia Adeola.
New York Fashion Week (NYFW) is the time of year when things speed up a bit for fashion lovers, designers, and critics. If you’re a fan of fashion, you’re probably anxiously awaiting new collections to be shown on the runways and in showrooms. But if you’re an avid fan of Black brands and fashion houses, you’re probably well aware of some of the hurdles they have to overcome.
In 2020, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) released a statement declaring their commitment to “bringing systemic change to the industry.” This was followed by a database of Black talent to fill roles at brands, the creation of mentorship programs, and diversity and inclusion training for CFDA members. These steps have led to the official CFDA calendar featuring over 20% Black designers by September 2022. While this percentage may seem small, it’s a step in the right direction.
The fashion industry still has a long way to go, but resources like the CFDA and the Black Fashion Fair give designers the opportunity to fund and streamline their operations, and help them get their products to consumers. With some brands also participating in New York Fashion Week this year, NYFW 2023 will feature a mix of up-and-coming and established Black brands, from Tia Adeola and Bed on Water to Heron Preston (showing in New York for the first time) and LaQuan Smith. Each brand is sure to bring us meticulously designed pieces that will bring a buzz to the fashion market in the near future.
Ahead of New York Fashion Week, here are some Black-owned brands that will be showcasing new collections at the event, which runs from February 10th to February 15th.
Laquan Smith
LaQuan Smith’s eponymous line screams glamour. An ode to New York City, his distinctive pieces reflect his connection to his hometown of Queens and the city. Loaded with celebrities and influencers such as Nicole Ari Parker and Lala Anthony each season, his collections tend to include pieces made from vinyl and leather, ideal for wearing for special celebrations. He has designed custom pieces for the likes of Beyoncé, Rihanna, and Dua Lipa.
Tia Adeola
New York-based, London-raised designer Tia Adeola continually creates pieces that reflect an ongoing dialogue with history and eras, particularly the Renaissance. Adeola’s fashion world is defined by flamboyant ruffles, chiffon and angelic hues like baby blue, icy white and rose pink. Previous collections have drawn inspiration from the late designer Mugler and Nigeria, where she has a close relationship.
Sergio Hudson
Sergio Hudson’s eponymous line is driven by a penchant for rich color. In addition to this, he continually creates chic pieces that his clients can wear to work or out of the office. His taste for sophisticated tailoring and a great power suit sets him apart from other luxury designers.
Ama’s House
Founded in 2015, House of Aama is the brainchild of mother-daughter design duo Rebecca Henry and Akua Shabaka. Produced in Los Angeles, their work is a fusion of their creative expression, storytelling, and archival analysis, with each collection relating to their own journey through time.
Head of State
Nigerian designer Taofeek Abijako made his red carpet debut last year when he designed Evan Mock and Danai Gurira’s Met Gala outfits. Though his line was created in 2016, this debut was a breakout moment for the designer, whose work is both a representation of his Nigerian background and an extension of his membership in the West African artistic community.
Heron Preston
Heron Preston is known for his streetwear and logo-heavy creations, such as logo bags, oversized coats, and everyday denim jeans. He often uses a safe shade of orange to add color to his work, and is also passionate about creating workwear with a premium feel.
Bed on Water
Parsons graduate Chanel Campbell launched Bed on Water in 2018. When her brand first launched, celebrities like Solange wore her custom-made pieces. Years later, Campbell’s unpredictable talent continues to guide her as she explores interesting patterns on t-shirts and creates pieces in velvet and leather. Recently, her pieces have been worn by Willow & Chloe and Halle Bailey.
Who decides the war?
Designer Everard Best (aka Ev Bravado) was a former student and protégé of the late Virgil Abloh. He is widely known for his denim look, detailed with rips, jewels, and sometimes colorful paint. Best is part of a new generation of designers who aren’t afraid to show off their highly personal work.
Romeo Hunt
Founded in New York in 2013, Romeo Hunt’s eponymous label has been worn by the likes of Zendaya and Beyoncé. Hunt, who grew up in Brooklyn, has a style that combines sportswear with tailoring, including collaged outerwear. Hunt’s collaboration with Tommy Hilfiger was announced last year, the culmination of years of Hilfiger’s mentoring of the up-and-coming designer.
