At the moment, Jean-Michel Basquiat is the hardest working designer in fashion. Nearly 30 years after his death, in 2022, his work graces Samsonite suitcases, CASETiFY accessories, and countless streetwear brands like Wacko Maria, Nu Denim, Etude, and Soul Goods. Needless to say, the majority of these “collaborations” have rather unceremoniously trashed Basquiat’s back catalogue, turning the artist into prey for Urban Outfitters. But this doesn’t always have to be the case. Black Fashion Fair, for example, is sincerely respecting the artist’s intentions with a new collaboration in conjunction with the King Pleasure exhibition, currently running in New York.
Designers including Teofilho, Hanifa, Head of State and Who Decides War have created one-of-a-kind pieces based on Basquiat’s work, including hoop mini dresses, knitted gowns and screen-printed tailoring. Most of the pieces will be unveiled for the first time as part of a show-within-a-show called “Those Who Dress Better,” with 16 pieces available for purchase for a limited time, including sweaters, painted handbags and crown-shaped jewelry. “We wanted to highlight the richness and texture of the pieces we loved in the exhibition,” said Evin Thompson of Teofilho, who created a piece based on Basquiat’s “Cabeza.” “Cabeza” is a 1982 painting with the word “Aopkhes” scrawled on it, the meaning of which remains mysterious despite appearing in many of his works.
Some have their say in this breathless rehashing of Basquiat’s image. He was a graffiti artist first and foremost, decorating New York’s public transportation and sidewalks with frenetic hieroglyphics, so perhaps the sneaker collaboration only reinforces the ubiquity he sought to establish in life. “You can despise commercialization, but wasn’t it his desire to paint every surface with runes?” Olivia Laing wrote in her 2017 essay about the artist, “Funny Weather: Art in an Emergency.” King Pleasure runs until January 1st. In the meantime, click here to see more of his collaborations with Black Fashion Fair.
