Selena Brown
Charlene Prempe’s new book puts the spotlight on Black talent. She noticed a lack of documentation of Black history and was determined to change that. In writing Now You See Me: 100 Years Of Black Design, her main goal was to pay tribute to the unknowns who may not be as well known, but who have contributed greatly to Black fashion over the past century. “It was important for me to be a part of that documentation. The reason that history is really important to me is because there’s a sense that if you learn from that history, you’re less likely to make the same mistakes,” Prempe told ESSENCE.com.
Ann Lowe, Ebony Magazine, 1966
Despite studying politics, philosophy, and economics at Oxford University, Prempe has never called herself a historian. But her new book offers others a chance to learn details about lesser known figures, such as designer Ann Rowe and costume designer Zelda Wynn Valdez. Rowe is the couturier who is credited with designing Jackie Kennedy’s historic wedding dress; Valdez stitched the original Playboy bunny costume. Other creators from the last century that Prempe centers on in Now You See Me include graphic designer and art director Emmett McBain and renowned architect Paul Revere Williams.
The author and founder of creative agency A Vibe Called Tech began researching her debut novel in late 2020, amid the lockdown caused by the global COVID-19 pandemic. Many of the texts she needed for research were in the US, and she wrote the majority of the book in the UK. Restrictions meant she couldn’t travel to New York, causing significant delays. So she resumed her research in late 2021, with the bulk of the additional research taking place in May 2022, she says. The author says the grit and perseverance that led to the publication of this book was a labor of love.
Joyce Bryant in “Tight Tight” gown by Zelda Winn Valdes – © Van Vechten Trust
Prempeh decided to include familiar names in the fashion world in her book, such as stylist Law Roach and designer and multidisciplinary artist Samuel Ross, to provide a different perspective. “I wanted to use voices that people recognize and respect,” she said. Prempeh had previously interviewed Roach before his retirement announcement, and he acknowledged that black creatives often have to overcome difficulties in the industry. “When I interviewed him for the book, he was so optimistic,” Prempeh said. “It made me think about how much energy he had. [shell out] It’s really not just me [but also] how much [he has to] “What’s clear from that post is that he struggled with the dynamics of the industry, but he just couldn’t maintain his enthusiasm,” she adds. Another thing that stood out to the author was the lack of billion-dollar black fashion brands. In one chapter of Now You See Me, Prempe explores Willie Smith’s career and his hugely profitable brand. She touches on the fact that she feels that when he died, his legacy died with him.
The book was written to correct a history we’ve seen so many times. Prempe says black-founded fashion brands like Off-White, founded by the late Virgil Abloh, should be more common. She also thinks black talent needs to know what obstacles they have to overcome to start a company. She also feels the fashion industry as a whole needs to remember and pay tribute to the countless designers, stylists, creative directors and others who have made the industry flourish over the past century. Each of these ideas is the driving force behind Now You See Me. Prempe hopes the book will be a catalyst for change.
“Discovery is a wonderful thing. You can’t write a book without wanting people to read it, but a big part of why I want people to read this book is because I feel like there are so many discoveries out there that not many people know about,” Prempeh elaborates. “I want to impart information that I hope will spark creativity, ideas and discoveries in others,” she adds.
