The Environmental Cost of Fashion
The clothing industry is a significant part of the economy, worth US$1.3 trillion and employing over 300 million people across the value chain (Ellen MacArthur Foundation). Over the past two decades, global textile production has nearly doubled from 58 million tons in 2000 to 116 million tons in 2022, and is expected to continue to grow to 147 million tons in 2030 under business as usual (Textile Exchange 2023). In 2014, people bought 60% more clothes than they did in 2000, but kept them for half as long (McKinsey & Company, 2016).
While the fashion industry is booming, it is also receiving greater attention for the extent of the negative environmental impact it causes: the fashion industry is the second largest consumer of water in the world and accounts for 2-8% of global carbon dioxide emissions.
Furthermore, 85% of textile products are discarded each year (UNECE, 2018), and large amounts of microplastics end up in the ocean when some types of clothing are washed.
Fast Fashion’s Environmental Footprint
Every second, the equivalent of one garbage truck’s worth of clothing is incinerated or dumped into landfills (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017) Around 60% of materials used in the fashion industry are plastic (UNEP, 2019) Every year, washing clothes releases 500,000 tonnes of microfibers into the ocean – the equivalent of 50 billion plastic bottles (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017) The fashion industry is responsible for 2-8% of global carbon dioxide emissions. If the fashion industry continues on its current trajectory, its share of the carbon budget could jump to 26% by 2050 (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017) Every year, the textile value chain uses 215 trillion litres of water (equivalent to 86 million Olympic-sized swimming pools) (Quantis, 2018) Around 20% of industrial wastewater pollution worldwide comes from the fashion industry (Word Bank, 2020) Less than 1% of materials used in clothing production is recycled into new garments, resulting in a loss of over $100 billion in material value (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017) Making the textile value chain more sustainable requires an additional $20-30 billion per year in funding, with 60% of this going towards energy, water and waste issues (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017)
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Fast fashion also comes with a human cost. Textile workers, mostly women in developing countries, are often paid low wages and forced to work long hours in poor conditions (UNEP, 2018; WRI, 2019). In many places, these conditions lead to human rights violations (Human Rights Watch). The use of chemicals in clothing production also raises serious health concerns for both workers in the industry and consumers. The aforementioned pollution also has further health impacts.
The environmental and social costs of the fashion industry are forcing us to rethink fast fashion and highlighting the need for more sustainable business models and practices. The following resources provide additional information on fashion’s environmental impact and potential paths for change:
Plastics in Textiles
After World War II, the development of synthetic fibers such as polyester and nylon transformed the fashion industry. Global consumption of synthetic fibers increased from just a few thousand tons in 1940 to more than 60 million tons in 2018. Since the late 1990s, polyester has been the fiber most commonly used in textile products. Production of chemical fibers surpassed cotton production in the mid-1990s and has more than doubled in the past two decades. In 2020, synthetic fibers accounted for about 64% of global textile production. Today, it is estimated that about 60% of clothing and 70% of home textiles are made from synthetic fibers.
These plastic-based fibres have a significant impact on the environment and climate throughout their life cycle, as they emit greenhouse gases and pollutants. The textile sector is an increasingly important contributor to the climate crisis, with around 1% of crude oil production being used to produce synthetic fibres (European Environment Agency).
The fashion industry is also a significant contributor to plastics entering the environment: the textile value chain is responsible for 9% of annual microfiber pollution into oceans (UNEP, 2021).
Therefore, it will be important to consider the textile sector in tackling the ongoing plastic crisis. Plastic pollution is one of the major environmental crises of our time, and various actors are working to address it. This includes negotiations towards a legally binding international treaty on plastic pollution, initiated by a resolution adopted by the United Nations Environment Assembly in March 2022. To learn more about the plastic pollution crisis, the governance process to address it, and the work of Geneva-based organizations on the issue, see our “Plastics and the Environment” series.
Plastic pollution, its impacts and governance
International Cooperation on Sustainable Fashion
As the fashion value chain is globalized and the fashion industry has a major impact on achieving the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), international cooperation is key to promoting sustainable fashion.
The impact of the fashion industry on the SDGs (UNECE, 2018)
Launched at the Fourth United Nations Environment Assembly (UNEA-4), the UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion aims to stop environmentally and socially destructive fashion practices. The Alliance analyzes UN agencies’ efforts to make fashion sustainable, identifies gaps in solutions and activities, and presents these findings to governments to encourage policies and strengthen collaboration among UN agencies. Additionally, the Forests for Fashion Initiative, led by UNECE, FAO, and partners, supports innovative solutions in fashion through sustainable forest-based materials. Several other international organizations are working on global efforts to promote more sustainable fashion. Additional information on these initiatives is available at the links below:
Fashion Industry Climate Action Charter
The Fashion Industry Climate Change Charter, announced at COP24 in 2021, will serve as a roadmap to achieve net-zero emissions by 2050 within the textile, clothing and fashion industry.
Charter signatories and supporting organizations are working within working groups with the aim of identifying and scaling up best practices, strengthening existing efforts, identifying and addressing gaps, facilitating and strengthening collaboration among relevant stakeholders, combining resources and sharing tools to help the sector achieve its climate goals. Further resources on the Charter and related activities can be found here.
World Cotton Day
Cotton is one of the most common fabrics used in clothing. Cotton production supports the livelihoods of 28.67 million people and benefits over 100 million families worldwide (WTO, 2020). Recognizing cotton’s important role in economic development, international trade, and poverty alleviation, the United Nations General Assembly decided to observe October 7 as World Cotton Day (A/RES/75/318).
Cotton production can have a negative impact on the planet through the use of pesticides, large amounts of water consumption, and the conversion of habitats to agriculture. Traditional production methods can cause soil erosion and degradation, water pollution, and other pollution. Therefore, supporting sustainable models of cotton production is essential to achieving the SDGs. Learn more about environmental sustainability in the cotton sector through the resources below.
2023 Celebration | From farm to fashion, making cotton fair and sustainable for all
The third World Cotton Day, organised by the United Nations, under the theme “Making Cotton Equitable and Sustainable for All: From Farm to Fashion”, seeks to raise awareness of the cotton industry and the vital role it plays in economic development, international trade and poverty alleviation. The commemoration also aims to highlight the importance of sustained, inclusive and sustainable economic growth, full and productive employment and decent work for all.
Many Geneva actors are involved in promoting sustainable production and consumption patterns in the cotton industry (see section below for more details), and this year’s official celebrations, held in Vienna on 4 October, were attended by Geneva actors from the World Trade Organisation, the International Trade Centre, the United Nations Conference on Trade and Development, the International Labour Organisation and the Better Cotton Initiative.
Sustainable fashion in Geneva
Alphabetical order
Better Cotton Initiative
The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), the world’s largest cotton sustainability program, aims to make global cotton production better for the people who grow it, the environment where it is grown and the future of the cotton industry.
International Labour Organization
The ILO promotes decent work in the textile, garment, leather and footwear sectors through social dialogue, knowledge sharing, international labour standards, capacity building, partnerships and policy support.
ITC Ethical Fashion Initiative
EFI is the International Trade Centre’s flagship programme, connecting marginalised artisans in developing countries, many of whom are women, with international fashion houses for mutual benefit. EFI also hosts the secretariat of the UN Sustainable Fashion Alliance.
United Nations Economic Commission for Europe
UNECE’s work on trade in the textile and leather sector focuses on increasing transparency and traceability to identify and address labour and human rights violations, as well as environmental impacts, while embracing more sustainable production and consumption patterns. UNECE is also promoting sustainable innovation in the fashion sector through its work on sustainable forest products.
United Nations Environment Programme
UN Environment’s work on sustainable and circular textiles takes a value chain approach, enabling change at every stage of the value chain and involving players of all sizes and market segments. To develop a roadmap, UNEP conducted a global stocktaking. Updates on UNEP’s work on this rapidly evolving topic will be publicly accessible on the One Planet Network platform.
World Trade Organization
At the WTO, cotton is the only commodity that is discussed separately, following an initiative launched by the Cotton 4 in 2003. The initiative aims to make international trade in cotton fairer and to clarify the linkages between trade, cotton and development.
The UN system’s involvement is larger than the Geneva-based organisations profiled here: members of the UN Sustainable Fashion Alliance also include UNDP, UNEP, the UN Global Compact, UNFCCC and UNOPS.
what can i do?
While international organisations, governments and businesses are working on solutions to transform the fashion industry in a more sustainable direction, consumers can also play a role with their everyday actions. This section provides resources on actions individuals can take to support sustainability in their clothing choices.
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Further resources and events to learn more about environmental sustainability in the fashion industry are listed below. This page will be updated regularly.
