On the top floor of a Montparnasse office building during Paris Fashion Week at the end of September, designers Benjamin Baron and Bloor-August Westbaugh of the All In label were about to present their Spring 2025 collection. The space was empty except for a few benches and a raised, rickety catwalk. The whole scenario looked like an old set from a 1980s movie about stock traders wielding slimy brick phones.
Soon the catwalk lights came on and the show’s soundtrack by Norwegian electronic duo Smelts began to play. The opening blip of the Sex and the City theme song has been remixed with the purring sound of Samantha, the show’s PR guru. “Dirty Martini, Dirty Bastard” is interspersed with excerpts from David Bowie’s “Fashion” and Cyndi Lauper’s “Girls Just Want to Have Fun.” Then the line started. One model wears a deconstructed acid wash denim jacket (part of a collaboration with Guess Jeans), a mini scarf skirt layered over pants, her hair in Farrah Fawcett waves, and her fingernails made of spherical plastic pearls. I decorated it with Another model wore a draped baby blue blouse and a pencil skirt made with a blazer and trench coat. Model Colin Jones, with her lioness gaze and bold struts, closed the show in a ruffled Swiss-dot tulle dress with an asymmetrical hemline and a belt cut out from the waist. He was the second to close the show. jeans.
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This is the world of All In, a fashion brand with famous fans including Rihanna, Charli XCX, and Kylie Jenner. It quickly became beloved for its playful and provocative range of clothing and accessories made from upcycled materials.
Barron launched All-In as a magazine in 2015, and Vestbø joined shortly after to help conceptualize and style the shoot. Together they scavenged through local thrift stores and DIYed their own looks for editorial use. That led to designing their own pieces and eventually a full collection. Often we have fictional characters in mind, such as pop stars or debutantes. Think mixed-material dresses with drapes. Jeans decorated with costume jewelry. Or a cult-level boot made to look like it has a sleeve on the heel, instantly becoming an It-boot for those in the know.
The all-in Spring 2025 collection was styled by the brand’s muse and sometime model Lotta Volkova, who previously styled with Demna at Vetements and later Balenciaga, in addition to her current styling duties at Miu Miu. Styled. Barron explains that this season was partially inspired by the 1988 film Working Girl and its protagonist, Tess, a financial assistant who poses as an overbearing executive. “We were inspired by this character who transcends different backgrounds and ends up impersonating someone else, and the failures that occur when trying to acquire a new type of identity,” he says.
All-In is currently stocked at SSENSE and Dover Street Market Paris and is expanding its direct-to-consumer offering. “I think we were inspired by the fact that we were seeing people wearing our clothes for the first time,” Vestbaugh says. “this [the brand] It’s no longer just an image, it’s actually alive in the world. ”
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Barron and Vestbø are part of a new wave of emerging brands in the luxury price segment that choose independence over mass appeal, an intuition that is currently proving to be a big part of the market. It is an unofficial brand. Julie Gilhart, former fashion director of Barneys New York and founder and president of Gilhart & Co., says that as the brand continues to grow, she hopes to attract “young spirits who crave fashion and want their style to be original. It’s going to speak to our customers.” She added: “Ben and Bloor’s expressions are more playful than serious, which is what sets them apart.”
In an industry where luxury homes are price-gouging and over-produced, and the middle market is being decimated by the proliferation of affordable, Instagram- and TikTok-first fast fashion labels, customers are placing greater emphasis on their purchasing power. It seems there are. A brand that proposes ideas rather than investing in straight products. Look at Rick Owens’ continued success. He is a designer who represents the pinnacle of those who foster individualism through a collective drive for self-expression, and he also sells many clothing and accessories. And Miu Miu is the high fashion house that was once again named the most popular brand in the Lyst Index for the third quarter this week. This is thanks to Mrs. Prada’s emphasis on whimsy, playfulness, and personal style. And let’s not forget Tory Burch, a company that bet big and reaped the rewards by focusing on the evolution of personal style and clothing over established trends.
In the celebrity realm, the all-in aesthetic is influencing fans of the aforementioned labels, a younger generation like Charli XCX and Rihanna, to dress up and ditch the logo-emblazoned head-to-toe looks. Match with fans. Like a magpie, I like a free DIY atmosphere.
This fluid world is one that well-dressed and fashion-obsessed people are eager to embrace.
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Nick Tran, head of buying and merchandising at Dover Street Market Paris, observes that All In taps into a similar psychological desire to use dress as a vehicle for evolution. “Their vision is very specific and direct, but their appeal is very broad,” says Nick Tran, head of buying and merchandising at Dover Street Market Paris. “Products evoke emotional responses and have transformative properties.”
Barron spoke about feedback from All In customers (both old and new), saying that people “always get stares and comments, good and bad, on the street. Either way, we found it interesting that people were reacting so strongly to us.”In fact, All-In’s erratic styling and deconstructionist approach are a minimalist’s nightmare. , an antidote for bold, rebellious dressers who despise stealth wealth. It’s not for people who aren’t into fashion, but that’s a big part of the inherent magic.
All-in offer
Benjamin Barron (left) and Brol August Westborg
Vestbaugh said his reaction was the same when he saw All In’s spring 2025 collection slide down the runway. girl. “In their words, their designs are typically very feminine and are meant to evoke a certain empowered spirit in the person who wears them, regardless of gender.” Again, it’s single, but it’s available to everyone. “It’s always about the idea that we don’t want it to look like anything else,” Vestbaugh emphasized. “You have to see it and judge it, but you can’t say 100% what it is. It’s exciting to try and create something that looks like it’s out there.”
Maryam Nassir Zadeh, the first retailer to stock and support All-In, has always believed in the power of Barron and Vestbø’s vision. “All In is an important brand in the big space of fashion right now,” she says. “This is a beautiful vision of accessibility and fantasy, street and couture. It tells an original story.”
The electricity remained on even after the show ended in Paris. Guests jumped out of their seats, clapped and danced, and took turns walking down the catwalk, many wearing Rebel boots. Backstage, the models were in various states of undress, looking fresh and refreshed with e-cigarettes, ready for the after-party. Designers looked happy and sweaty as they scrummed with friends and colleagues. Looking back on all of this, Barron and Vestbaugh said something quite obvious. “People loved the show and people wanted the clothes, so that’s a good thing,” Barron said with a grin. They are currently working on a new collection and various projects including a panel discussion at Art Basel Paris. The duo holds fast to their dream of taking All In to new heights, new places, and new people, and that dream is becoming a reality.
Barren continued, “Your idea of who you want to represent is always evolving, so you’re always running towards an image of yourself, but because it’s always in motion, it’s never completely complete.” “We are always in transition mode.
Open All-In Spring 2025 Gallery
Brooke Bobb is Fashion News Director at Harper’s Bazaar, working across print and digital platforms. Previously, she was a senior content editor at Amazon Fashion and a senior fashion news writer at Vogue Runway.
