Photo illustration: The Cut Photo by Catherine J. Igoe
Even though I left the office life years ago, I never stopped searching for the perfect black blazer. I had a blazer in my head that had every conceivable specification to fit my short, long-waisted frame: oversized overall, but cropped so it didn’t fall below the hips; shoulder pads to add definition without making broad shoulders look even thicker; heavy (wool or wool blend), lined, with only a few buttons, and no double-breasted; something that didn’t require any tailoring work and looked equally chic over black trousers as it did over my favorite white sweater dress. It was an Anine Bing or The Row blazer…only, you know, cheaper versions.
My closet is full of remnants of my rummaging. In 2016, I bought a blazer from Zara ($50), lined with polyester and short enough to suit my shape thanks to a little expert tailoring at the hem ($30). It worked fine, but after a year it started to pill and show its age, so I wanted to level up. My next purchase was a blazer from Anthropologie ($85) in 2017. Also a lined polyester blend with a contrasting satin collar, it felt reasonably flattering, but it didn’t suit my broad shoulders. I ignored that fact for a while, until I got pregnant and accidentally ripped the lining in the back. In 2020, I opted for my favorite brand, Everlane, my go-to for t-shirts and pants. However, blazers are long enough that I nearly drowned in the brand’s (wool-nylon blend, lined) option for $168. I took it to a tailor, hoping he’d work his magic, but after two rounds ($60), I admitted it just wasn’t right. In total, I estimate I spent nearly $400.
From left: This Zara blazer was $50. Photo by Catherine J. Igoe This Anthropology blazer was $85. Both were wrong. Photo by Catherine J. Igoe
From above: This Zara blazer was $50. Photo: Courtesy of Catherine J. IgoeThis Anthropology blazer was $85. Both were wrong. Photo: Courtesy of Catherine J. Igoe
In December 2023, I finally “gave in.” I had my eye on a black blazer at Anine Bing for months, and their (lined wool blend) Madeleine option was on sale for $280. It was near perfect right out of the box. The cuffs were a tad long, but I loved the saggy look. I wish I had bought it sooner and not spent so much time and money being measured for other blazers.
Allison Bornstein, the stylist who came up with the “wrong shoe theory” (choosing unexpected, counterintuitive shoes to add depth to an outfit) and the “three word method” (identifying three different words that define your style and incorporating all three into an outfit), has a term for this phenomenon: the “cookie theory.”
Her analogy: If you’re trying to cut down on sugar but still crave a cookie at the end of a meal, you might find a low-carb alternative as a way to avoid the sweet treat. But then you eat 20 chocolate rice cakes and still aren’t satisfied. And if you’re me, you end up eating the cookie. Similarly, if you have your eye on something but can’t or don’t want to buy it right away, it’s easy to find a similar product that fits the bill.
“I’ve seen people have approximations of what they like,” she told me over the phone. “Let’s say you really want a Burberry trench coat, but you’re not going to buy it. You might buy a couple of trench coats that have similar uses, and then when you put together an outfit, you think, I want to pair this with a trench coat, but you don’t actually wear the trench coat that you own. It’s like you don’t even have a trench coat because it’s not even an option.”
While this certainly applies to investment pieces, Bornstein argues that they don’t have to be expensive items — they can be things you want but can’t have right now. “You might walk past Zara and see a pair of jeans that look like the ones you want, so you’ll buy them now, but then you’ll never get what you like, or if you can’t have it, you’ll have extra stuff.”
An Anine Bing piece that I really wanted. Photo by Catherine J. Igoe
For me, finding the perfect blazer for my body type and aesthetic took time, trial and error, patience, and of course, money. This process also requires self-exploration — being willing to ask yourself what the blazer does for you and why a particular option doesn’t do the job. Bornstein suggests taking a few extra seconds to identify what doesn’t work for you. “Instead of criticizing yourself and saying, ‘This doesn’t look good on me, this looks bad,’ think, ‘This doesn’t look good on me.’ It may sound cliché, but can we learn? What can we learn from this?”
In videos like these, Bornstein hears commenters lament how difficult the process is — they can’t afford the item in question, or they can’t wait to save up because the item will sell out. While she acknowledges that changing your shopping patterns can be scary, she insists it’s possible: “Shop a little less. I’m not saying don’t buy stuff. I’m not saying get rid of everything you have. I’m just saying maybe try and add one more thought.”
“It’s not always easy to get what you want,” she added. “The easiest things are often not the things you want.”
Chances are, your favorite item will appear on a resale site in a few months. If not, compare different brands and sizes. You’ll probably find an item that meets most or all of your requirements without spending a fortune. Use the money you save to get the item you want, rather than buying a similar item that could easily be bought. (Some of her clients write down the cost of cheaper items they’re tempted to buy, and then use that total to buy one more expensive item at the end of the month.)
Now, I wear my Anine Bing blazer when I drop off my kids, attend business meetings, or go to upscale events. For my recent headshots, the blazer was a no-brainer. I threw it on over the clothes I’d brought for the shoot and instantly felt more confident and powerful. I even brought the blazer with me on my recent trip to New York, where I wore it on the most important, most important days of my life: meeting with an editor from The New York Times, attending a book launch for an editor from Marie Claire, and having coffee with my most important publicist. Every time I left my hotel, I threw the blazer on as the finishing touch. I looked in the mirror, took a picture, felt totally amazing, and off I went. Easy.
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