New Delhi: Renowned designer JJ Valaya says it is his duty to preserve the beauty of bygone eras and present it in a new light as an “excavator of the past”.
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Valaya showcased modernity, nobility and elegance in its latest collection, ‘Muraqqa’, presented on the fourth day of Hyundai FDCI India Couture Week.
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His new clothing line from his label, The House of Valaya, is inspired by three historically significant cities: Istanbul in Turkey, Esfahan in Iran, and Delhi.
“As someone who excavates the past, I feel it is my duty. Go back and find all the beauty in it, make it contemporary and present it in an entirely new way. Otherwise it gets lost,” Valaya told PTI on the sidelines of the ongoing fashion gala.
The Delhi-based designer stuck to his USP of opulence through his festive collection ‘Muraqqa’, which featured custom silk fabrics and luxurious velvets.
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“It’s all rich and luxurious. We’re a luxury brand. It’s festive season, this is festive couture, so there’s rich velvets, silks and all the things that would be considered really luxurious,” he said.
The colour palette ranged from green, beige, brown and maroon to shades of gold and black. Menswear was dominated by evening jackets, sherwanis, Nehru jackets and bandhgala jackets, while womenswear was dominated by lehengas, saris, anarkalis and suits.
Some of the male models wore turbans to complement their outfits, while the female models completed the look with nose piercings. Bold appliqué designs, polka dots and embroidered geometric patterns were also seen on the outfits.
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For Valaya, one of the most sought-after Indian couturiers in the international fashion world known for his maximalism, fashion is style.
“There’s something I always say: Fads and gimmicks aren’t fashion. Something that lasts the test of time – that’s what I consider fashion. Fashion equals style.”
In his latest collection, the Istanbul theme draws from Ottoman intricacy and Art Deco lines, while Isfahan offers a contemporary reinterpretation of Persian carpets and miniatures, and Delhi celebrates Mughal inlay work interwoven with flora and fauna motifs.
He selected “beautiful nuances” from the three cities and incorporated them into his new modern collection.
Valaya summed up the collection as a combination of “royal spirit and art.”
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The leading couturier details the process of bringing a design to life, from initial idea to final form.
“I first come up with the idea and then I research it. I am a big believer in research. In fact, I spend weeks gathering data, even going to those places and putting together mood boards.”
“Then we brainstorm, draw the first sketches, make the first tracings, develop the prints, weave the textiles, etc. It all comes together in one cohesive spirit to create a beautiful collection,” he added.
When asked who the most stylish person was, the designer said it was difficult to pick just one, but that American fashion icon Iris Apfel, who passed away in March aged 102, had an incredible sense of style.
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“If you go back in time, not too far, there’s Iris Apfel. She was an American diva who passed away after living for over 100 years…The way she brought it all together was just amazing.”
Valaya is already working on her next collection.
“For the last 33 years, I’ve thoroughly enjoyed what I’ve done. Let’s just say I’ve been blessed.”
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