The fashion industry is estimated to be responsible for up to 8% of global greenhouse gas emissions, with clothing production doubling over the past 15 years.
Urgent action is needed as the environmental impact continues to grow: on average, textile consumption in the EU has the fourth largest impact on the environment and climate change after food, housing and mobility.
Following UNEP’s recent high-level event in Brussels, “Threads of Change”, UNRIC spoke to the co-founders of Bakermat, a Belgian company that aims to empower designers to create sustainable products.
Founders Cédric Jacquemin and Quinten Sharp – ©2024 BAKERMAT
Bakermat, Dutch for place of origin, was co-founded by fashion designers Cédric Jacquemyn and Quinten Schaap and brings together a range of textile suppliers under one roof, creating a homely atmosphere. The store supports collaborations between designers and suppliers, from a small business in India representing hand weavers who recycle surplus fabric to a time-honoured Italian company that produces costumes for the Pope.
Located in the heart of Antwerp’s fashion district, the store’s walls are lined with shelves displaying a variety of fabrics, including Japanese denim, traditional Italian silk, recycled jeans and handwoven silk from India.
“It’s important to be located in the city centre, among other clothing stores selling finished goods, so we can give more information about the story behind what goes into making a garment,” Sharp says.
The founders believe that sustainability starts with education, raising awareness about the value of materials and the people involved in their production, and through technology they hope to introduce new tools to make sustainability even more important.
The role of digital technology
Bakermat uses 3D software to visualize fabrics online and enable designers to create fittings digitally, reducing the need for multiple physical prototypes, improving efficiency and reducing waste.
“While designers still need to create a physical prototype for the final product, they can skip the three or four prototypes they would normally make before that – it’s a more efficient way of working in the fashion industry,” Sharp said.
Impact on education
Bakermat works closely with the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp and hopes to have a positive impact on the textile industry by enabling fashion students to incorporate digitalisation into their work, providing sustainable materials and organising workshops and events that connect students with textile factories.
Through in-store talks, hosting fabric fairs in schools and collaborating with universities, the team aims to raise awareness and provide information about their materials, in order to embed sustainability from the start.
Beyond the fashion sector, the store has also collaborated with dance companies and the Royal Opera.
The future of the industry
Jacquemin predicts “an increased use of recycled cotton and wool and a focus on sustainability and investment,” but stresses that “greenwashing needs to be addressed.”
In this context, the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe (UNECE) launched a Community of Practice in June 2024 to increase traceability and transparency and scale up best practices in the garment and footwear industry.
Sharp emphasizes “transparency and traceability” as essential changes the textile industry needs to achieve sustainable fashion. As digitalization advances, Sharp draws attention to the European Digital Product Passport, which will come into force on 18 July 2024. This product digital ID card will store information about the sustainability of a product’s entire supply chain.
The role of citizens and policymakers
Jacquemin believes consumers can drive change by “making informed choices about the materials and brands they support.”
At the recent United Nations Environment Assembly (UNEA-6), governments urged institutional change to promote resource efficiency and circularity.
Jacquemin remains optimistic: “I hope there will still be space for small businesses and those that continue to uphold traditions so that designers can make the best choices.”
“Addressing the industry’s complex problems requires dialogue, communication and teamwork,” Sharp concluded.
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