Welcome to Ask Doctor Zac, news.com.au’s weekly column. This week, Dr. Zach Turner investigates whether face rollers are effective.
Question: Hello, Dr. Zack. My mom says you’re the king of busting TikTok influencer trends. I’m 17 years old and get a lot of advice from TikTok. I want to stay young and beautiful forever (lol). Do gua sha and face rolling tools actually work or are they just a fad? – Kayla, 17, Torquay, Victoria
Answer: As a physician, I often hear this question from patients who suffer from swelling around the eyes or on the face, especially in the morning.
To be honest, I too have been searching for a way to get rid of my stubborn dark circles under my eyes. Whether it’s from a late night out or one too many glasses of wine, waking up with red, swollen eyes isn’t the look most of us want. But are gua sha and facial rollers really effective? Let’s take a closer look at what actually works.
Dr. Zach Turner explains why jade rollers have suggested health benefits. K Abrahams/peopleimages.com – Stock.adobe.com
Before we get into the claims, let’s explain what these tools actually are.
Gua sha comes from traditional Chinese medicine and involves gently scraping the skin, usually using a smooth-edged tool such as jade or rose quartz. This is thought to increase blood circulation and relieve tension.
The modern version focuses on the face and aims to give the skin a refreshed and radiant look. Face rollers, on the other hand, are often made of similar materials and glide over the skin to help with swelling and lymph drainage.
Claim: Was the truth accepted, or just a clever marketing influence?
The rumors that gua sha and face rollers contour the face, smooth fine lines, and promote lymphatic drainage sound great.
But is there any solid evidence behind these claims, or are we being sold a dream of beauty?
Facial contouring and swelling reduction
One of the most common reasons I recommend gua sha is to reduce puffiness, especially the puffiness under the eyes that many people experience when they wake up in the morning. Of course, this includes the morning after a late night celebration. A cold gua sha tool works wonders here. Cold stones help tighten the skin, followed by warm stones to maintain the effect as the stones warm up. This process helps reduce swelling as the massaging action increases lymphatic flow. There’s even research in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology that supports gua sha’s ability to improve microcirculation and alleviate fluid retention, at least temporarily.
That said, if you’re chasing Hollywood-level cheekbones, a quick session with gua sha won’t cut it. Unless, of course, you turn around and take a selfie immediately afterwards while the effect is fresh.
“If you’re chasing Hollywood-level cheekbones, a quick session of gua sha won’t cut it,” says Turner.
As a matter of fact, the sculptural effect is temporary and depends on the reduction of body fluid accumulation. Long-term contouring requires something more serious than just a jade tool.
Wrinkle reduction: a little stretch
It’s clear that gua sha can refresh your skin, but can it really eliminate wrinkles? This is where things get a little fuzzy.
A review published in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology found that while facial massage techniques such as gua sha can temporarily increase skin elasticity, retinoids and It turns out that it is no match for laser treatments. So while increased blood circulation may give you a short-term glow and slightly firmer skin, don’t give up on your anti-aging serum just yet.
Lymph drainage: this is the real thing
Where gua sha really shines is in stimulating lymphatic drainage.
Think of the lymphatic system as responsible for disposing of the body’s waste products. When your lymphatic system becomes stagnant, you may notice a buildup of fluid that causes facial swelling. By gently guiding the tool across the skin, this fluid can move toward the lymph nodes and reduce swelling.
A study published in the Journal of Traditional Chinese Medicine highlights the role of gua sha in promoting lymphatic circulation. However, like contouring, the benefits of drainage are not permanent and often disappear within a few hours. Regular use is important if you want to maintain a refreshed look.
You should spend about 5 to 10 minutes per session to see results. Drobot Dean – Stock.adobe.com
Beyond research, I have seen firsthand how these tools can help with specific concerns. Recently, I had several patients suffering from blepharitis, which causes swelling of the eyelids. In these cases, I suggested gently rolling some cold gua sha chilled in the refrigerator over the affected area. By the way, I also suggested the cool pack, but the 15 and 18 year olds seemed to enjoy the gua sha more. The combination of cold sensation and gentle pressure helped reduce the swelling. However, the important tip here is to be sure to clean your gua sha after each use, especially if there is a possibility of infection. This is a simple step that will prevent bacteria from lingering on your tools and causing further problems.
Speaking from experience, it’s also worth paying attention to your hydration habits if you want to avoid those dreaded eye problems the next morning.
Drinking red wine with dinner may be tempting, but consuming alcohol before bed can make eye puffiness even worse. It is better to enjoy drinks early in the day and try to drink water after 5pm. You can take my daytime drinking suggestions with a grain of salt, but your skin and your morning reflexes will thank you.
The biggest benefit (without wasting time)
The takeaway here is that consistency and proper technique are non-negotiable if you want to get the best results with your gua sha or face roller. It doesn’t end with a quick 20 second roll.
You should spend at least 5 to 10 minutes per session to see real results. A study in the Journal of Derological Science suggests that sustained facial massage is necessary to improve circulation and skin elasticity. Additionally, these repetitive movements activate your parasympathetic nervous system, which helps you relax and reduce stress. This is something we could all use a little more of these days.
With this in mind, I think it’s most commonly done in bed while reading a book or listening to a meditation track.
If you enjoy the calming routine of using a face roller or gua sha, these are great additions to your daily routine. Although it is effective for temporary swelling, it does not produce permanent effects such as smoother eyes or more defined cheekbones. Think of these as quick fixes, not permanent solutions. Also, remember that hygiene is important. Be sure to clean the tool properly after each use, especially if you are using it near your eyes or have sensitive skin. A little bit of care now can prevent big problems later.
