Like many South Asians, I’m not alone in looking forward to Diwali every fall. Diwali, also known as the festival of lights in India, brings back a lot of memories. The clay candles and marigolds dotted around my grandmother’s house, the nights filled with Bollywood music and fireworks, the piles of jewelry I borrowed from my mother’s cupboard. Even as an adult, I counted the days every year, and I still do.
The festival, a time that symbolizes the triumph of good over evil, literally permeates the homes and streets of India and the vast South Asian diaspora. And this year, from October 31st to November 1st, it’s not just families and households that celebrate this day. The fashion industry has also been celebrating in recent years. There’s a good reason for that.
This Diwali season, Indian fashion is back in the limelight, with new glamor and a new eye for rental and sustainable styles. The growing global importance of Indian fashion is undeniable and examples of this are countless. Dior held its Fall/Winter 2023 show at India Gate in Mumbai. Leading Indian designers such as Manish Malhotra and Sabyasachi Mukherjee have opened flagship stores in New York City and Dubai. H&M has collaborated with Indian designer Anamika Khanna. According to McKinsey estimates, India’s apparel market is expected to total more than 81 billion pounds this year, up from about 45.7 billion pounds in 2022.
“There is no better time than Diwali for Indian fashion to take center stage.”
Closer to home, my Instagram feed over the last month has been dominated by the intersection of Diwali and the global fashion industry. Luxurious parties and collaborations with numerous brands were held, including a glamorous Mayfair celebration hosted by rental platform By Rotation. Christian Louboutin has launched a Diwali capsule collection that pays homage to Indian fabrics and textiles. In another adorable endeavor, Mattel commissioned Indian designer Anita Dongre to design a special Diwa Barbie that represents the modern Indian girl. It is nothing short of affirming to see South Asian talent being recognized globally and nationally. I’ve tried to champion this talent in my work and it’s certainly a privilege to be able to share it.
In all this, it is impossible not to mention the evolution of Indian fashion itself. Thanks to rental platforms, a growing market and the rise of social media, Indian dressing has taken on new life and shape. There is perhaps no better time to explore this than during Diwali, when family and friends gather for endless parties like sleet.
Rental platform opens the door
Luxury fashion in India is poised to expand further and has been the center of celebrations like weddings and Diwali for years. However, these costumes weren’t always affordable. “Traditionally, high-quality lehengas and Indian wedding attire come with a hefty price tag and are out of reach for many,” says By Rotation Founder and CEO (CEO) Eshita Kabra-Davis, herself an Indian woman, says: Now, digital fashion platforms like By Rotation and the beloved old marketplace Circular Threads (particularly for South Asian fashion) are opening these doors.
“Rental platforms are democratizing access to South Asian fashion and expanding the world of designers.”
The collections on these digital platforms oscillate between the traditional and the contemporary, including sequined black sarees, luxurious fushalehengas, and pearl-encrusted blouses. And the demand for such options is skyrocketing. According to a report by Rotation, searches for ‘lehenga’ have increased by 1060% in the last year alone.
“By offering these garments on rent, we are opening up the world of designers like Gaurav Gupta, Manish Malhotra, Payal Singhal and even Sabyasachi to a wider audience,” Kabra-Davis says. “We are democratizing access to South Asian fashion, giving people access to these beautiful haute couture pieces without the burden of ownership.”
Fashion and beauty influencer Julie Patel agrees that India’s fashion rental market is growing, with her followers asking her about renting authentic South Asian clothes like sharara and sarees. Questions are being asked “every day”. “I feel like people are looking for something newer or more expensive to get. [Renting] It’s a great option,” she says.
Similarly, London-based lifestyle creator Natalia Arora says rental services have made shopping for occasions like Diwali “seamless,” especially when it comes to elaborate Indian clothing. He says it has started a conversation about sustainable consumption of high fashion.
“These pieces are intricate, hand-embroidered, and take hours to make,” she says. “Why wear something only once and keep it in the back of your closet? I love that it’s sustainable. And at the end of the day, you’re still respecting the brand.”
This was Cabra Davis’ intention with his rental empire. “Rentals are a great solution for special occasions where you want to make a statement while having a low impact on the environment. Festive seasons like Diwali are a time when people want to experiment with fashion and celebrate their culture. “So it’s especially meaningful,” she says.
Fusion of tradition and creativity
There is a visible effort to make Indian wear sustainable. At the same time, Indians, and the broader South Asian community, are embracing the spirit of Diwali, a festival of light and hope, in their wardrobe choices. Think sparkling lehengas, intricately embellished sarees, and lots of jewellery. Similar to Diwali costumes, light and color are central. This is reflected in the aesthetics of Diwali partygoers.
Influencers offer a creative approach to contemporary Indian wear that combines pattern, color and even glamour. This season, Aroraa offers “fusion fashion” such as “stitched sarees, desi pants, and corset tops.” She added that it’s all about “rewearing items” and merging styles.
“I pair traditional lehengas with modern crop tops or layer them with festival prints,” she says. “It’s completely different now, lively and fun. You can make your own statement without losing the traditional feel.”
There is consensus on this approach. Beauty and lifestyle creator Seerat Saini also shines a modern lens on South Asian clothing, with creative ensembles resulting from “repurposing” both archival pieces and everyday wear from her closet. says. “Indo-Western is very playful and you can express it however you want. There are no rules anymore,” she says.
Patel also blends Indian wear with what she calls “cool girl chic.” She says it’s now easier to find items that are “practical and comfortable” while staying close to her South Asian style roots. She names designers like Mahima Mahajan, Anamika Khanna and Manish Malhotra, each catering to a different aesthetic from minimalism to full-on glamor.
When it comes to Indian attire, the combination of traditional and modern attire is nothing new. But with the advent of luxury rentals, favorite works, and creator influences, fresh ideas have emerged. Repurpose and reinvent your wardrobe staples. Dress up consciously. Visualizing the talent of South Asian designers. In essence, conscious and fun fashion is the way to go this Diwali season.
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