MILAN ā The son of a kimono merchant, Yoshiki Hayashi’s path into fashion was written into his roots, but it was his first attraction to music at the age of 10 that paved the way for a career as co-founder, drummer and pianist for Japanese heavy metal band X Japan.
As a musician, YOSHIKI, known by his first name, told WWD that he has always used the power of clothing to get his message across. “From the beginning of my career, and since I was very young, fashion has always been my weapon of communication. Along with music, fashion is 100% a part of my life. Fashion dresses up my message, it protects me, it makes me strong,” he said.
In 2011 he made his first foray into the fashion industry, founding Yoshikimono, an edgy, contemporary, “rock and roll” kimono brand that reinvents the more than 1000-year-old garment and is regularly shown at Tokyo Fashion Week.
For 2023, YOSHIKI has set his sights even higher, announcing more ambitious plans for a full-fledged fashion and lifestyle business.
Maison Yoshiki Paris is “a natural evolution of Yoshikimono, which was mainly targeted at the Japanese and Asian markets. I quickly felt I had to create something more international. They’re both very individual, but at the same time very different from each other,” he said.
Maison Yoshiki Paris, the genderless womenswear brand, made its runway debut on the eve of Milan Fashion Week on Tuesday, presenting a rock ‘n’ roll collection fit for the stage and the daring consumer. Early 2000s-reminiscent crop tops and flared, low-rise trousers were made from luxurious Italian and French fabrics like silk, mousseline and lightweight wool, with the occasional faux fur accent, in keeping with the flamboyant aesthetic at the core of Yoshiki’s creativity.
“Maison Yoshiki Paris was 100% nurtured by my childhood and culture. I grew up surrounded by very luxurious and refined fabrics and I was always fascinated by the upright posture required by kimonos in particular. That’s definitely what nurtured Maison Yoshiki,” he explained.
Japanese rock star YOSHIKI’s fall 2024 collection for Maison Yoshiki. Courtesy of Maison Yoshiki
Despite his ambitions to reach global markets, YOSHIKI remains adamant about keeping his culture and roots intact and reflecting them in his fashion: “Of course, as a cosmopolitan person who travels a lot, my collections are modern and logically very international, edgy and fashionable. The Japanese elements may only seem to me,” he said.
Although the brand name is based in Paris, he felt Milan was the better place to present his debut collection. “I loved the city of Milan, especially the iconic fashion houses, which all have a strong appeal that matches my style,” he said. “Also, I think Italy is one of the most successful markets when it comes to the fashion business. Milan is a city I love and I want to do business here.”
The brand will be distributed through its own e-commerce site and wholesale accounts.
YOSHIKI, a versatile creator who performed before the Emperor and Empress of Japan in 1999 as a virtuoso pianist, is set to release a glassware collection in collaboration with Baccarat later this year, building on a partnership that began when he was selected as one of the designers to celebrate the French crystal manufacturer’s 180th anniversary in 2021.
Yoshiki also produces California wine “Y by Yoshiki” in collaboration with the Mondavi family and champagne in collaboration with Pommery.
“All these diverse creative endeavors – music, literature, cultural projects, wine and champagne, Baccarat design work – are a way of life for me,” he said. “Wearing nice clothes, listening to beautiful music, drinking good wine in beautiful crystal glasses – that’s the kind of fashion lifestyle I want to show others.”