Since forming a partnership four years ago, Atlanta natives Ahmad Barber and Donte Maurice, known as AB + DM, have quickly risen to prominence in fashion and celebrity photography. In their work, they combine the traditions of haute couture fashion with the future of high fashion: sociocultural inclusivity and freedom of artistic definition.
Known for their mastery of enlivening different skin tones and giving their subjects a relatable presence, they’ve photographed Zendaya and Viola Davis for InStyle, Cardi B for Billboard, and Osaka for Vogue Hong Kong. He photographed Naomi and the cover of Lady Gaga’s House of Gucci at The Hollywood. Reporter.
The cover of Black Fashion Fair, photographed by AB + DM, features model Maria Borges wearing a Sergio Hudson dress. Courtesy of AB+DM
Recently, the two have branched out into producing fashion magazines as art and photography directors for Black Fashion Fair. The Black-owned print publication, which launched in February and quickly sold out, is the latest venture from the website of the same name, which was founded by stylist and consultant Antoine Gregory in 2020 to showcase Black fashion designers.
“It felt great to be a part of establishing something that meant so much to us. We hope [it] It will benefit generations after us,” Maurice says of working on the magazine and photographing two of its three covers. “Everyone on the team wanted to help expand the idea of what is possible for Black creatives.”
As for how they make their shots, Barber said: Many people appreciate our ease of setup while still having the ability to get the job done. ”
The Hollywood Reporter spoke to AB+DM about their biggest milestone, filming Zendaya, and how their culture inspired their photographic ambitions.
What was your journey to becoming a Black tastemaker and how has it shaped your worldview in the fields of fashion, art, and design?
Donte Maurice: We came into this world with very little knowledge other than our own research and experience in the city of Atlanta, so it felt like we were starting over. The best way to describe it would be to cook a new meal in an old frying pan. We were able to add our flavor to these new opportunities.
Ahmad Barber: I agree with Donte. I would also say that through this journey, I have come to understand even more the importance and impact of our presence. Thanks to this, we have sharpened our perspective and are now able to shoot the way we really want to shoot.
Shooting for the “Black Fashion Fair,” which spotlighted Sergio Hudson’s work. AB+DM/Black Fashion Fair
What specifically drew you to the craft and creative direction of photography?
AB: I think for me it’s just about being involved in creating visual products. From researching inspiration, lighting diagrams, costume boards, angle preferences, color toning, image selection, retouching, and the final product.
DM: I was drawn to all of this because it was a form of expression for me. We may not talk much, especially about issues and emotions, but we can express them through this art form and it’s still liberating.
Please tell us more about your local background and the inspiration that led you both to form the duo.
AB: Our partnership and brotherhood is born out of community. Of course, as solo photographers we had two different aesthetics, but our ethos was always that we wanted to build a creative community.
DM: Ahmad said it perfectly! We inspire each other and we can use that to move forward. It feels like a 1+1=2 scenario…we have found that we are much better together than we are alone and different. It’s so amazing to see how two minds can merge into one. I tend to keep everything fresh.
During the pandemic, we’ve seen AB+DM studios take the lead and consistently curate some of fashion’s most stunning covers for InStyle, The Hollywood Reporter, Essence, and more. You will recognize the tradition and future of fashion and perform these fresh and original portraits. What was it like navigating through a pandemic and dealing with changes on production sets?
AB: To be honest, it was very unexpected. We just had to let go and surrender to God. At some point, we had to let go of the idea of what we expected to happen, what we thought would happen, and just let things happen. And of course, when such an opportunity presented itself, we had to do our due diligence and be prepared.
DM: I completely agree. Every set is extremely difficult, both during the pandemic and now. As Ahmad said, you never know what will happen when it comes to testing, talent, etc. We really had to just let go and surrender to God. We rely on God’s wisdom to help us navigate these waters we have never navigated before. it was very helpful!
The cover of the new magazine “Black Fashion Fair”. black fashion fair
I love the long-standing and trusted partnerships you’ve built with iconic Black talent. You’ve seen recurring performances with stars like Viola Davis, Cardi B, and Zendaya, who I think performs most often. How were you able to piggyback on this sentiment and find a community in fashion’s elite space?
DM: Yes! Being yourself is very important. Relationships with friends and family are also something you bring to the set. Everything we do is a collaboration, so we open the floor for everyone to express themselves in their own way and make sure everyone’s opinion is heard and accounted for. Because that’s what we want to give back. Everyone was so nice and welcomed us into their world. I really appreciate it!
AB: Yes, with a well-planned deck and schedule, you can also host a full-on dance party. Of course we will maintain social distancing. Part of professionalism and relationship building includes really learning the preferences of some of the talent, figuring out the details, and building a strong foundation to evolve as the shoot continues.
What was your favorite career collaboration milestone of 2020 and 2021?
AB: 2020 will of course start with the September Instyle cover. We are forever grateful to Law [Roach] Thank you for thinking about us. Also, the InStyle team, Laura Brown, Rina Stone, Lizzy Oppenheimer, and Lucy Fox, believed in us and really gave us a platform of this scale. I think it was a truly shocking experience to end the year with Lady Gaga in 2021. She is someone you wouldn’t think you would have the option to work with just by looking at her, and the experience of working with her was truly unforgettable. I would like to thank Ash Berhamand and Kayla Landrum of the Hollywood Reporter family for this opportunity.
Both are art and photography directors for the first Black-run magazine of its kind, which focuses on Black designers and influence in the fashion world. What was it like establishing the first print issue of Black Fashion Fair?
AB: We owe our start and our vision to Antoine Gregory. We first collaborated with Antoine in 2020 to launch the platform with a story featuring Pyer Moss shot in Atlanta. Of course, the relationship continued from there. When he told us about this project in 2021, we were instantly depressed. I think we knew we had something to say, something we wanted people to see, and some creative we wanted to collaborate with and highlight. I was simply humbled by the opportunity that my BFF and Warby Parker gave me to create freely, to give opportunities to others, and to leave behind images that will be archived for generations to come.
Warby Parker ad shot for the Black Fashion Fair. AB + MD/Black Fashion Fair
DM: We were completely obsessed with fashion. As my love grew, so did my knowledge of designers, glam artists, and more. Almost everyone’s goal in life is to make a difference, and this was no exception. Everyone on the BFF team wanted to help shift perspectives, create tables, and expand ideas of what Black creatives can do. It felt great to be a part of establishing something that meant so much to us. Because this is what we hope will benefit the generations after us.
Who are your favorite Black designers that you chose to highlight at Black Fashion Fair?
Both: This is a very difficult question! Honestly, guys, I really can say that. I think it was really great that we were able to work with the Sergio Hudson Collection and have him come on site and see what was going on. I also had a chance to photograph him for the story. That moment was very special to us. Additionally, the historic Pyer Moss Couture collection photoshoot was amazing.
Fashion shoot featuring Pyer Moss at ‘Black Fashion Fair’. AB+DM/Black Fashion Fair
What motivates you to continue to strive for greater exposure of stylized Black stories in all forms of media, from advertising to editorial?
AB: I think the biggest motivation is to create reference images by our culture for our culture. We want future generations to see themselves on these platforms and know that Black luxury, Black glamor, Black couture, and Black fashion are still alive and well. Masu.
DM: Correct! And that there are so many different stories to tell. There is no one style or method because there are so many different viewpoints and viewpoints that all Black creatives work with and draw from.
Beyond the commercial scope of the fashion industry, what does the future of high fashion look like to you?
AB: I think high fashion looks free. I think we’re currently seeing a blurring of the lines between street and couture, high and low. As a result, I think a lane will continue to form where people will no longer try to force things into that box as they once did.
DM: High fashion is a reflection of the mood of the moment. It will happen if people allow it.
A version of this story first appeared in the March 2 issue of The Hollywood Reporter. Click here to subscribe.
