When fashion designer Mayur Girotra presented his “Ride to Pride” collection at New York Pride earlier this month in New York City, his collection blurred the boundaries of traditional dress with an inclusive, global, genderless style in which every outfit was gender-neutral.
“The idea was to create a safe space for people to explore and express their identity without prejudice, restrictions or societal pressures,” says Girotra, who has long been a vocal advocate for the LGBTQ+ community. This annual Pride collection means a lot to him. “This collection is for my soul. The ultimate aim is to create impact and change, and in this case I used fashion as a vehicle to achieve that,” he adds.
The collection features Gujarati Kutch patchwork embroidery, ikat patterns and custom prints tailored into global silhouettes. High-waisted trousers, trench coats and oversized shirts coexist with lehenga skirts and saris. Using upcycled silk and linen, Gilotra uses a palette of bougainvillea pinks, sandy neutrals and subtle rainbow hues to form a tapestry of Indian culture and the pride flag.
“I have always seen fashion as more than just clothes and embroidery. I also see fashion as more than just an expression of Indian tradition and design heritage,” adds Girotra.
Similarly, BeUnic, a queer-owned marketplace for gender-inclusive and pride-themed products founded in 2019, is expanding its presence in India with unique products like tote bags and T-shirts. BeUnic founder Vishesh Chopra started the brand after his brother Ashish couldn’t find men’s shoes with heels. “My mother, Simi Nanda, had the idea to launch a line of shoes that catered to the LGBTQ+ community and their tastes,” Chopra said, noting that he sees the sector growing in diversity and revenue.
“We also plan to go global in the next few years. There are many inclusive brands emerging that offer all style options,” he added, explaining that the Indian market is open to experimentation with fashion and trends.
“India has always had gender fluidity in how we dress and express our identity, so we need to reclaim that from the past and create a space where people can dress however they want without hatred or prejudice,” Chopra added.
Diamonds are a symbol of everlasting love, and for Darayus Mehta, co-founder of certified lab-grown diamond jewelry brand True Diamonds, inclusivity is at the heart of everything. “Our collection, especially the Butt Studs, embodies the spirit of individuality and self-expression that is at the heart of the LGBTQ community. These pieces are more than just jewelry, they are statements of pride designed to resonate with everyone, regardless of their background or identity,” Mehta feels. Mehta will be running the brand full-time in January this year, and hopes to hit $1 million in annual recurring revenue (ARR) through its online platform.
June is Pride Month, and the LGBTQ community is represented with a variety of merchandise created especially for them.
“Pride is a time to proudly fly the flag and march in support of all walks of LGBTQAI+ existence, and the rainbow flag plays a big role, but more recently we’ve seen slogan T-shirts displaying powerful messages of support, along with calls for positive change and action,” says Robbie Sinclair, youth director at New York-based trend forecasting and consumer insights agency Fashion Snopes, which partners with Wazir Advisors in South Asia to sell its services in the region.
Gay fashion designers have dominated the runways, including Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, and Alexander McQueen, and fashion collaborations have also been a success among gay men. In 2018, British model Cara Delevingne walked the runway in a Burberry rainbow cape, the last cape worn by Burberry’s president and chief creative officer Christopher Bailey for the iconic British heritage brand.
Missoni’s Spring/Summer 2018 silk rainbow dress was modeled by Kendall Jenner in a Harley Weir campaign, Dolce & Gabbana focused on multicolored bow dresses that year, Marco de Vincenzo introduced multicolored trimmed wool coats for Autumn/Winter, and Versace showed a rainbow mini dress worn by Gigi Hadid at Milan Fashion Week 2018.
Variety
Pride merchandise ranges from pin badges, pillowcases, coffee mugs, rainbow-shaped doormats, cloud-shaped night lamps, key chains, to shirts with slogans, and is sold on various e-commerce sites such as Etsy, where other items include personalised spinner rings, rainbow-striped spinning rings made of titanium and steel, bohemian flags and different variations of chokers. UK-based Urbanic also sells a collection of Pride accessories and clothing.
Several local brands have partnered with online dating app Tinder and digital space Gaysi Family to bring you the third Queer Made Weekend, a queer celebration of fashion, art, merchandise, home decor and zines, in Delhi in June. For instance, Mumbai-based AshCo has printed shirts, eclectic bags and accessories; Delhi-based TheEliteThrift is a fashion treasure trove; Genderse has chest binders designed for the Indian climate; and Khanjra, an initiative by Naz Foundation India Trust, makes jewellery. A Spinster deals in handmade fibre art, with founder Vishakha using wool and other natural fibres to spin yarn and crochet and weave wall art, home accessories, winter clothes and kinkwear. Astitva Art sells handmade sustainable home decor, while Forbidden Verses is a Delhi-based artist collective that is committed to inspiring conversations around art, promoting local marginalised artists and making art more accessible.
Some collections go beyond the traditional rainbow colors to draw inspiration from specific queer movements in history. For example, Levi’s new 2024 Pride collection takes inspiration from LGBTQIA+ rodeo culture with capsule looks that include shirts, vests, jeans, bottoms and accessories embellished with rhinestones, copper thread, marbled hardware and gold-plated denim. Or a tie-dye hat with the slogan “Protect Trans Kids” features not only the rainbow colors but also the transgender flag.
As consumers increasingly seek out products that are tied to social justice, sustainability and accessibility initiatives, Danny Goldstein, community manager at Fashion Snoops, said value-conscious shoppers are seeking out brands that are doing good across all fronts.
“There’s an increased focus on sustainability in LGBTQIA+ collections, with some companies using recycled materials and organic cotton, like queer-owned, New York-based brand Zero Waste Daniel. Some companies are enhancing the accessibility of their Pride products for people with disabilities, including incorporating features like Braille and sign language designs on shirts, like DeafAF’s 2024 Pride Edition. The industry is recognizing the need for adaptive clothing to fit diverse body types, especially for transgender and gender-dysphoric people, and this includes creating items with alterable, fitted silhouettes to fit everyone properly. Brands like Both& are designing shirts specifically for AFAB (assigned female at birth) masculine consumers, perfecting the proportions of their shirts to fit their characteristics, such as a short torso, narrow shoulders, roomier hips, fitted sleeves, and upturned collars to hide binders,” Goldstein adds.
Although pride products are associated with the pride flag, there are other important factors that brands should consider when designing their product lines. “Some brands have come under fire for rainbow washing, and consumers in the LGBTQAI+ community deserve brands that align and support them in ways that go far beyond the rainbow flag. A great way for brands to be true allies is to stand up strongly for all aspects of the community, especially when they are being challenged by oppressors. Authenticity is key, so if they sell products that celebrate Pride Month, brands should explore ways to raise awareness and donate to causes that help protect, educate and support the LGBTQAI+ community,” adds Sinclair.
