Smith and Caughey’s on Queen Street in Auckland. Photo: RNZ/Malika Kabaji
With New Zealanders turning away from high fashion when it’s time to refresh their wardrobes, Op Shop’s chic looks are likely to get a lot of attention this summer.
Figures from Stats NZ show per capita retail sales have fallen over the past two-and-a-half years, leaving some clothing retailers in dire straits.
New Zealand designer Kate Sylvester will close in 2025, Juliet Hogan will close her Ponsonby store and Smith & Coffees will close its Newmarket store and significantly scale back its CBD operations.
At the same time, the desire for long-lasting, more affordable designer clothing is rapidly increasing.
Kate Sylvester’s Ponsonby store closed last weekend.
Shoppers in Ponsonby told RNZ it was sad news.
“I didn’t want to miss out, so I bought two of my favorite jeans that she styles.
One woman said: “I lived in this area for over 20 years…It’s a sad loss.”
Another shopper agreed it was disappointing.
After more than 30 years in business, Kate Sylvester will close its doors for good in 2025. Photo: Courtesy Kate Sylvester
“I see people frequently going and buying products, but I’m guessing the volume isn’t enough to sustain where we are now.”
Designer Juliet Hogan said the retail landscape had changed over the past 20 years.
“I think having three retail stores in Auckland is a luxury given the current economic climate.
“Also, with the changing face of Ponsonby, it is becoming much more hospitality oriented as opposed to the retail industry it started with.”
She said the brand still had stores in downtown Auckland, Newmarket, Christchurch and Wellington, but the business was adapting to changing shopping habits.
“So we’re looking at what kind of inventory we have in store, how much inventory we have, how often we do it, and how we communicate with customers.”
Juliet Hogan’s show at New Zealand Fashion Week 2023. Photo: Getty Images for NZFW/Brendon Thorne
Some shoppers told RNZ that their clothes shopping habits had changed.
One person said: “You’ll probably buy higher quality clothes that will last longer, but you’ll buy less.”
Another said she was shopping less frequently: “You know, it’s not really my habit anymore to go to the store to buy clothes every three months or something.”
One woman said she needed to try it on before buying. “I think you need to look at the shape, size, and fabric. I probably like to buy more mid-range to high-end clothes.”
Another shopper said he was only saving on clothing. “I haven’t bought anything new in two years, which is nice.” [for] Something like the environment. [It’s] Wow, you can find a lot of the same kind of clothes like Kate Sylvester’s and it’s much cheaper. ”
Michael Lee, associate professor of marketing at the University of Auckland, focuses on anti-consumption and spending habits.
He said people are reconsidering buying expensive clothing, and there is a growing desire for previously loved clothing, not just for their unique sense of style, but because clothes tell a story. .
“This is a group that’s on the rise, and actually the idea that pre-loved clothes are, you know, like the soul or essence that existed before, as the word suggests. ” before it becomes their property. ”
Designer Wardrobe Aidan Bartlett. Photo: Moonflower Photo
Aidan Bartlett, chief executive of used clothing market Designer Wardrobe, said business was strong.
He said designer wardrobes were now expanding across the ditch to enable trans-Tasman trade, and sales had increased fivefold since Covid-19.
“We’re actually growing at about 15 to 20 percent annually, which is a huge number compared to other types of categories. Normally it’s around 5 to 8 percent, so it’s hard to see this level of growth. is really exciting.”
Bartlett said the increase in membership was also due to increased awareness of the fashion industry’s environmental impact.
“Textile waste is actually the second biggest pollutant in the world after oil, and people are just becoming more aware of that and wanting to reduce their carbon footprint, and it’s been around for a while now. Being loved is a great way to do that.”
