“Isn’t it wonderful?!”
On an unseasonably warm fall afternoon in New York City, Kelly Goff walks through the parts of her Manhattan apartment, a closet-cum-office unit called CL Office. An accomplished journalist and screenwriter, Goff is equipped with standard office essentials. But the rest of the space is filled with her extensive vintage clothing collection, a collection of more than 100 pieces by Black American designers. “Awesome,” Goff told us, is a crisp leopard-print jumpsuit by Patrick Kelly. The designer, known for his bold, colorful designs worn by muses such as Pat Cleveland and Grace Jones, died in 1990 at the age of 35, but worked in Atlanta and New York until moving to Paris in 1980, where he worked at the Chambre Museum. He became the first American designer to be recognized by Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter is the umbrella organization for the ready-to-wear industry in France. “[I] “I think they’re men’s pajamas,” she said, adding that Kelly has never designed pajamas for his own collection, so it’s highly likely that this piece was a one-off he made for himself. He explained that he was confident. “I’m wearing it and I love it.”
Another section of the collection is “all Stephen,” she says, referring to designer Stephen Burrows. His sexy lettuce-hem dresses were a hallmark of disco-era fashion, and he was the only black designer to present at the famous Battle of Versailles in 1973. [pioneering Black model] Donyal Luna,” Goff says. The two reunited earlier this year at an event commemorating the 50th anniversary of the Battle of Versailles.
Goff’s first edition of Elizabeth Keckley’s book Behind the Scenes. Photographed by Nina Westervelt
For Goff, who counts “And Just Like That” and “The Mayor of Kingstown” among his writing credits, amassing a vintage treasure trove was born out of what was once a meager clothing budget. “When I first started collecting, I didn’t realize that was what I was doing,” she says. “I moved to New York, and I was invited to fancy events, but I didn’t have the money.” So Goff only shopped at Roman’s, a closed discount department store, or at flea markets. In early August, people were no stranger to fawning over Goff’s party looks, only to find out that she was wearing a $20 vintage dress that she had taken from a neighbor’s flea. And in 2015, Goff wrote an article for the Daily Beast about Black designers past and present. “That got me really interested in historically important black designers, from Patrick Kelly to Willie Smith to Stephen Burrows,” she says. Goff then discovered the work of Isaiah Rankin, a contemporary designer from the ’70s and ’80s, on eBay. The list described Mr. Rankin as someone who “was someone.”
Goff wore a 1960s debut dress by Ann Lowe. Photographed by Nina Westervelt
“It just upset me,” she says. “Isaiah Rankin basically invented athleisure,” said Goff, who purchased the piece and soon became “more active” in acquiring vintage pieces by Black designers. She felt that having their work cut short was an insult to their heritage. Especially considering that many careers were cut short by the AIDS epidemic. Kelly, Smith, and Rankin all died from complications related to the disease in the late 1980s and early ’90s.
Sifting through the items in Goff’s office, one finds a wool coat that Kelly once gave to Gloria Steinem. The champagne-colored dress is by Zelda’s Wynn Valdez, who famously designed the Playboy bunny suits. And the dress was created by Anne Lowe, the designer of Jacqueline Bouvier’s wedding dress for her marriage to John F. Kennedy. (Lowe’s work is included in a new exhibit, “Women in Crossdressing,” on view at the Metropolitan Museum of Art through March 3).
Goff will wear the item at a high-profile event, but “it’s [designers] “We didn’t necessarily get it, but that’s the recognition we deserve,” she says. She doesn’t just collect them for her wardrobe. “I would like to donate [over time] All of my work by Black designers has been offered to major institutions,” Goff said, citing Elizabeth Way, an associate curator at the FIT Museum, as one of the people behind the decision. Notes Way: “Kelly is very particular about building a collection of great Black designers who are underrepresented in many museums.”
Gough initially felt she lacked the expertise to identify museum-worthy works and work with institutions to display them, but added, “People like Liz… [have] It gave me the confidence to understand the importance of sharing my collections with the world,” says Goff, who is currently producing a documentary about black designers.
Kelly Goff wearing Patrick Kelly’s signature button dress on November 22nd in New York. Photographed by Nina Westervelt Kelly Goff on November 22nd in New York. Photographed by Nina Westervelt
Goff, a THR contributor, spoke to the magazine about her fascination with vintage, how she got interested in fashion, and her plans for the collection.
What do you look for when adding to your collection?
This is unusual and curators don’t necessarily like to hear this, but since I’m actually wearing my piece, it has to fit and I want to wear it. Must be something.
Please tell us about any great works you have discovered.
I have the only Patrick Kelly floor length button gown. It wasn’t in my price range when it was released, but [the seller]I said, “I’m a collector, and I promise I won’t turn it over,” and they said, “How much can you pay?” I’ve had this happen several times. Because I don’t sell clothes, people have been really supportive of what I want to do with them.
How did you get the Ann Lowe dress?
I’ve been treasure hunting for years. Her name wasn’t even listed [of her] Besides the dress, I knew where she designed it. One is the Adams Room at Saks Fifth Avenue. I kept searching on google and I got an alert like this [the gown] It was up for auction. After watching it for days, I finally understood it.
Do you own any particularly sentimental pieces?
Elizabeth Keckley was a slave who bought her freedom by sewing dresses. She made all of First Lady Mary Todd Lincoln’s dresses, and she also made her own. [Varina Howell Davis]First Lady of the Confederacy. She wrote her first exposé into the White House, which led to a major rift with the Lincoln family. One of them was put up for auction shortly after the writers’ strike began. I had to tighten up more, but this was the only time my family, manager, and accountant were all on the same page. They were like, “We need to figure that out.”
Vintage perfume bottle by Stephen Burrows. Photo by Nina Westervelt Her collection includes Patrick Kelly buttons and earrings made by the designer from buttons. Photographed by Nina Westervelt
Is there something you would like to add to your collection?
Stephen Burrows was responsible for Farrah Fawcett’s liquid gold dress at the Oscars. That’s murderous. I’ve been into it for years. It’s not a joke. Nancy Chilton invited me to a fundraiser. [veteran communications strategist and former chief external relations officer for the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute] And she introduced me to Sandy Schreier. [who] Major collector. When I was wearing Stephen Burrows, she said, “I’m wearing Stephen Burrows. “Oh, I have a lot of Stephens in my collection. Do you know that Farrah Fawcett dress?” “Are you the one who has that dress?” she said, “I’m sure.” That’s what it felt like. So I’ll never have it in my collection, but I love it.
When did you first become interested in fashion?
When I was little, my mom and I would watch old movies together, we’d watch Mildred Pierce, The Imitation of Life, Carmen Jones, and we’d just talk about how beautiful the clothes were. I did.
Why do you think vintage is so popular now, including for stars?
Because sustainability is a big part of the conversation. But also when it comes to social media, people don’t want to dress like everyone else.
What do you hope to achieve by donating your work to cultural institutions?
Both of my parents grew up in the segregated South, so the fact that no one knew about Ann Lowe until I was an adult is truly a travesty. I want other little girls to know who she is too.
Kelly Goff wearing Patrick Kelly’s signature button dress on November 22nd in New York. 2 A TV writer who has part of his vintage collection in his ‘cl-office’ (wearing a 70’s Stephen Burroughs dress). The leopard-print blouse in the foreground is a contemporary piece by Sergio Hudson. Goff’s collection includes this champagne vintage dress by Zelda Wynne Valdez, who has dressed stars such as Josephine Baker, Dorothy Dandridge, and Mae West. (On the left is an animal-print jumpsuit by Patrick Kelly.) Photo by Nina Westervelt
Kelly Goff appears on the red carpet in a vintage movie
vintage red carpet
Left: On the International Emmy Awards red carpet in November, Goff paired a 1970s Stephen Burroughs evening top with a Karl Lagerfeld skirt and a vintage belt purchased from New York City’s Spellman Gallery.
Center: At the Tribeca Film Festival in June, she wore a Patrick Kelly jacket and one of about 25 Zenni glasses. “I have the exact same teal jacket,” Goff says. Goff also likes contemporary pieces by Sergio Hudson and Off-White.
Right: Kelly wore a leopard-print dress to the 2021 premiere of And Just Like That. “I love classic style, but with a bit of an edge. I do things like quirky glasses and quirky sneakers,” Goff says. “It’s Jackie O meets Grace Jones.”
This article first appeared in the December 7 issue of The Hollywood Reporter. Click here to subscribe.
