The big news this season is that oversized has gone supersized. Yes, considering that fluffy white shirts and boyfriend blazers have been fashion-girl favorites for nearly a decade, it’s fair to think it’s time for the fashion pendulum to swing the other way. Maybe it’s a return to Helmut Lang’s fitted suits of Y2K or Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent drainpipe jeans. But if you’re reaching for your stretchy baby tees and dusting off your skinnies, stop right there. Because the fashion gods have officially commanded it. We’re about to start wearing more clothes than ever before.
Taking a break from danger tape catsuits and lycra sock boots, Balenciaga’s AW23 collection was a return to the brand’s original DNA: oversized, imposing outerwear, playing with proportions and anti-fit tailoring. Creative director Demna Gvasalia took the boyfriend blazer to a whole new level, with knee-length hems and sleeves so long the models’ hands were barely visible. And it’s not just the expected brands messing around with slouchy knits and XXL shoulders. Even Givenchy, who usually relies on clean lines and classic French couture, surprised and delighted us with loose peacoats, extra-long skirts and chunky jacket silhouettes at its Spring 2024 show.
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Across the catwalk, Frankieshop has been hoisting voluminous garments for years: The brand’s giant, one-size-fits-all quilted teddy shacket was an instant hit when it launched in 2021 and has sold out every season since. Its wider-than-wide-leg Dillon trousers have grown in popularity as well, and its fan base already includes best-dressed regulars like Emily Ratajkowski and Gigi Hadid.
More recently, Ray has followed in the footsteps first trodden by Mary-Kate and Ashley The Row, exaggerating quiet luxury with chunky knits in pricey merino wool and brushed mohair, and beautiful bouclé blanket coats. And for those with tighter wallets, brands like Hush, Cos, Align and Arquette are making lavish oversized shapes increasingly accessible.
But why do we love oversized clothing so much? Most brands think it has to do with looking put together without looking like you’re trying too hard. “Oversized shapes offer a liberating alternative to restrictive silhouettes because they combine comfort and confidence,” says Gaël Drebet, founder of Frankie Shop. “It’s not a trend, it’s an attitude.”
“It looks so effortless,” agrees Melissa Dick, chief creative officer at Hush, whose recent relaunch of the brand relied heavily on an oversized, slouchy aesthetic. “For me, I also love that it plays with the tension between masculinity and femininity. It’s a lot sexier than a skintight dress, in my opinion.”
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In a way, there’s a sustainability element to it, too. “People are experimenting more with styling by finding new ways to layer the clothes they already have in their closet,” says Martin Asbjorn, creative director at REMAIN. “Oversized clothing allows for imaginative layering, challenges gender norms, and creates outfits that are free from seasonal constraints.” All of these are fundamental to a circular fashion economy.
Bigger shapes have been on trend for a while now, but this season they’re definitely getting some twists. Influencer Sarah Louise Brice has built a following based on her high-low fashion approach: teaming party wear with ripped jeans, sparkly earrings with plain t-shirts, or XXL blazers with anything. For her, the coming months are about throwing out the proportion rulebook once and for all. While we previously thought that an oversized shape required the rest of the body to fit snugly, Brice now believes in a different mantra: “The bigger and looser, the better.”
Another new focus for loose silhouettes this season is denim. Where once loose tailoring imbued smart fabrics with a laid-back vibe, now super loose jeans are pushing the boundaries of relaxed style. “Low-rise, super baggy jeans feel like a modern take on the ’90s denim look,” says Brice. “They feel instantly cool and breathe new life into a wardrobe staple. My favorite way to style baggy jeans is with a shirt and simple ballet pumps. I love pairing them with an oversized t-shirt and blazer, or a zipped-up jacket and sneakers. It’s an effortless style.”
When it comes to the most important styling tips for this season, both ALIGNE and Hush have clear instructions. For Dick, the choice of fabric is a top priority, even for casual pieces. “At Hush, we’ve seen a real demand for oversized jeans and sweatshirts, but the key is to have a relaxed silhouette but still feel luxurious, so fabrics and details are very important. She doesn’t want to look sloppy, she wants to look modern.”
For ALIGNE’s brand director, Ginny Seymour, it’s no longer about pairing a big blazer with any old style. She’s noticed a growing desire for wider, slouchier shapes to coordinate. “We’ve noticed a lot of our customers want to see pieces that can be coordinated together, or styled naturally,” like Kim’s extra-long pinstripe waistcoat paired with Kaley’s wide-leg pleated trousers, or Him’s barrel-leg trousers paired with Harrison’s boxy blazer.
“We spend a lot of time thinking about which ALIGNE items can be styled together and photographed,” she concludes, “because we’ve noticed that people value seeing the whole look and knowing that it’s designed to work well together.” It’s literally never been easier to supersize your style. What are you waiting for?
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Natasha Bird is the former Editor-in-Chief (Digital) of ELLE.
