A few years ago, I found the perfect leather jacket in a charity shop in Cambridge. It was a very lucky find and has become one of my favourite pieces. My attachment to this jacket led me to think about the growing popularity of leather in the fashion industry and the serious issues that use of real leather raises. Leather jackets have become a staple and it’s rare to meet someone who doesn’t have at least one. However, clothing derived from animals such as fur and leather raises ethical and environmental issues. It’s important to consider the move away from fur in the fashion industry, the important role leather plays in the industry and the vegan-friendly alternatives that exist.
Historically, fur was used for warmth and then became a symbol of wealth. Fox and mink furs were very popular for coats and hats. However, these products were the result of cruel processing methods that put the animals in inhuman conditions. The International Fur Trade Federation reports that “wild furs account for approximately 15-20% of the global fur trade.” This means that roughly “85% of the fur industry’s skins come from animals raised in fur factory farms.” As animal rights have come to the forefront of the debate about the use of fur in fashion, the perception that fur clothing is a luxury item has turned into a symbol of cruelty. Due to PETA’s passionate campaigns and protests, the industry has shifted from using real fur to using fake fur. For example, the Prada Group announced in 2019 that it will no longer use fur in its products. Furthermore, the British Fashion Council announced that it will ban fur from the London Fashion Week schedule from 2024, indicating that the use of real fur is no longer in fashion.
However, this same change has yet to fully materialize when it comes to the use of leather. Leather has been consistently used as a staple for belts, shoes, jackets, and bags. When it comes to animal rights, the processes involved are just as cruel as the use of fur. The Animal Welfare in Fashion Report 2020 by FOUR PAWS estimates that “more than 2 billion animals are used in the wool, fur, and leather industry.” Some argue that leather is a by-product of meat and dairy, so the direct damage is less. However, this does not capture the economic value of the leather industry and how it is responsible for the deaths of millions of animals every year. The leather industry is “worth $212 billion globally and is expected to grow 6.6% by 2030.” Waste generated by factory farming and related processes also contributes to pollution. PETA is currently focused on banning leather, but the popularity of leather products has led to growing resistance from the industry. At Coach’s spring fashion show during New York Fashion Week 2023, two PETA animal rights activists walked the runway. One activist wore red body paint and another held a sign that read, “Coach: Leather Takes Life.”The animal welfare issues that come with the rise of genuine leather are slowly gaining attention, suggesting change is on the way.
Alternatives are being developed to reduce the use of animal-derived products. This is because consumers are becoming more socially conscious of the ethical and environmental issues that come with the use of fur and leather in the fashion industry. A 2017 survey by Unilever found that “one-third of consumers choose to buy from brands they perceive as doing socially or environmentally good things.” Therefore, to satisfy the market, the industry needs to change. Some brands have turned to using synthetic leather and other vegan-friendly materials. However, this comes with the problem that synthetic leather is made from plastics that are harmful to the environment. However, the industry is evolving and more environmentally friendly options may become available. For example, Hermes is experimenting with plant-based leather. And fashion brand Ganni created a jacket made of bacterial cellulose at the Global Fashion Summit in Copenhagen. Designer Stella McCartney is an advocate of animal-friendly clothing and hosted a sustainable fashion exhibition at COP28. Her brand does not use any leather, fur, or animal skins, and it does not use PVC. This highlights the huge potential for environmentally friendly and animal-friendly leather.
Fur and leather have played and still play an important role in the fashion industry! However, given the damage that the harvesting of these materials causes to animals and the environment, we should embrace the shift towards vegan alternatives and animal-friendly fibers. Changes are already happening regarding the use of real fur, and the same can happen with leather. While researching this article, I couldn’t help but feel guilty and sad about the cruel practices associated with my beloved jacket, and relieved that it was second-hand. However, the purpose of this article is not to guilt-trip or demonize those who wear fur coats or leather jackets. Rather, it is to highlight the importance of understanding and further examining the wider impact of the clothes we wear and the values of the brands we buy.
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