There are many definitions of ‘sustainable fashion’, each looking at the fashion industry’s environmental impact from a different perspective. The main goal of all these approaches and different measurement methods is to reduce the impact of apparel production and waste on the environment.
What is the impact of the fashion industry on the environment?
Water, land use, pesticides, waste, etc. The global fashion industry touches on many aspects of the environment, from the cultivation of raw materials to the production stage and what happens when it is no longer ‘fashion’.
Global textile production will almost double from 2000 to 116 million tonnes by 2022, and will grow to 116 million tonnes per year by 2030, according to data released by Textile Exchange, a fashion and apparel industry NGO. It is estimated that 47 million tons of clothing will be produced. Every year, 100 billion new pieces of clothing are produced around the world.
Coupled with doubling production at the time, consumers had to store clothing in half the time. With micro-trends moving faster than ever, throwing out last season’s shirts means most of these garments (about 85 percent) end up in landfills. Globally, only 1% of clothing is recycled and turned into new clothing.
A T-shirt with “No More T-Shirts” printed on the front stands on a board marking the landfill in a beautiful spot during the Act 1.5 concert at Clifton Downs in Bristol, England, on August 25. A man pins up his shirt. Getty Images
Clothing’s environmental impact begins at the beginning of the production process, which uses approximately 215 trillion liters of water per year and produces approximately 20 percent of the world’s industrial wastewater pollution. Much of it comes from dyeing or finishing processes, such as adding decorative whiskers to jeans.
And the fashion industry is responsible for 8 to 10 percent of global carbon emissions, according to estimates from the United Nations and the European Union.
How can the fashion industry reduce its impact? Part of the discussion is how to address the impact of different materials, metrics and the apparel industry.
organic materials
Organic clothing is made from natural materials grown without pesticides or fertilizers and from non-GMO seeds. Cotton is the most widely known and used material, but bamboo, hemp, wool, and linen are other fibers that can be grown organically.
Avoiding the use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides not only protects soil biodiversity and surrounding insects (think bees and other pollinators), but also protects nearby lakes and rivers, as well as the final It also helps avoid runoff that contaminates water supplies.
Tina Prink shows off a backpack made from pineapple leaves at the Green Showroom/Ethical Fashion Show Berlin during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring 2018 on July 5, 2017. thomas lones
Notice the label here. GOTS is the most recognized and highly regarded global organic textile standard. The two levels of labeling (“organic” and “organically made”) require 75 percent and 95 percent organic fiber, respectively. We also monitor wastewater treatment and chemical disposal, and take into account worker welfare.
The Organic Content Standard (OCS) looks at organic fibers in textiles throughout the supply chain, but focuses less on chemicals and working conditions. OEKO-TEX, on the contrary, focuses on testing for hazardous chemicals. Their organic certification was launched last year and has seven levels with different parameters.
Watch out for greenwashing, where brands use the word “green” or use colored labels to imply that clothing is made from organic materials.
recycled materials
Brands are installing “take-back” boxes in their stores to encourage recycling, but the technology and equipment for recycling clothing is actually quite limited. According to Textile Exchange, only 12 percent of the materials used in clothing end up recycled (often downcycled into products such as mattress padding), and recycled fibers, including cotton, will be recycled by 2022. It accounts for less than 1 percent of the global market in 2019.
Designer Titti Tossberg presented a dress made from recycled leather as part of the Green Showroom in Berlin on July 8, 2015. thomas lones
We see recycled polyester on clothing labels, but 99 percent of it is made from old water bottles, not from last year’s bubble-hem skirts.
Since polyester is made from crude oil, new companies and brands are working to change this and reduce the use of virgin polyester in fashion. Los Angeles-based Ambercycle uses Cycora material to create recycled polyester and recently partnered with cult Scandinavian brand Ganni.
One of the biggest technical challenges is the recycling of blended fibers, such as polyester and cotton blends. Circ has developed a new way to recycle these into new fibers such as polyester and lyocell that can be mixed with virgin fibres.
Although progress has been made when it comes to recycled fabrics, there is still a long way to go before they become a large part of fashion production.
Next generation alternative materials
Next-generation leather alternatives are helping the fashion industry reduce carbon emissions from greenhouse gases and the resource-intensive livestock industry. There are leathers made from grapes, cactus, mango, and pineapple that can be made into clothing and accessories. New companies are exploring unexpected resources every day, and there’s even leather made from discarded brewing grains.
Mycelium, a biodegradable fungal material, and Details of Christel Peters’ “Growing Shoes” made from musk. Tim P. Whitby/Getty Images
Another method is to grow new leather primarily from mushrooms. Mushroom-based fibers such as Effea and Lunafoam, called mycelium, are used by luxury conglomerate Kering and its brands. Hermès announced a collaboration with Adidas, designing bags using MycoWorks’ Reishi and Bolt Threads’ Mylo.
Another option is to upcycle mushroom and shellfish waste to make fiber. Many of these are in the research and development stage or are produced in small quantities.
Companies like Gen Phoenix recycle leather scraps and turn them into new fibers that provide sustainable leather alternatives. Their products are used in the production of handbags. Other biotechnologies include using seaweed to make T-shirts, like Keel Labs’ Kelsun fiber, and mimicking spider silk with proteins like Spiber.
Big brands are exploring new solutions, but most technologies are still in R&D and in early growth stages with a few hero items. Many companies are on the verge of building factories and larger production facilities.
circular fashion
The word “circular” is used in two senses when it comes to fashion. One is the “circular economy,” which encourages the reuse and repurposing of items, such as the sale of second-hand or vintage items, and the other is to encourage designers and brands to think about “circular design.” Clothing life cycle and disposal methods. For example, if a cotton shirt has metal threads or embroidery sewn on it, or if it has decorations such as foil prints, it cannot be mechanically recycled.
‘Circular design’ keeps recycling processes in mind, using materials and finishes that can be more easily put back into the system. The idea is to intentionally design the material to continue moving within the loop for as long as possible. This is a fiber-to-fiber recycling dream.
Christian Adelsberger presents a bag made from recycled seatbelts at the Ethical Fashion Show at Berlin’s Postbahnhof on July 8, 2015. Getty Images
Second-hand, resale and vintage play a big role here too, keeping products in circulation for years rather than going straight to landfill.
Keeping things circular is key in the sustainable fashion conversation. As the use of natural resources and extractive production continues to increase, such as using petroleum to make polyester or cutting down trees to make rayon and viscose, existing fibers need to be used for as long as possible. It is more sustainable to continue to do so.
Using upcycled or deadstock
Upcycling is another way to reuse original clothing and keep something in circulation. Designers and ordinary handy crafters take clothes apart and use them in creative new ways. These are often bespoke or unique pieces, and their uniqueness adds value to new products.
Deadstock is the act of repurposing unsold or branded surplus fabrics and fabrics from trash cans. When a company buys in bulk for a season, it can sit unused for years. LVMH’s Nona Source is a great example. The company sells unused rolls of fabric from premium brands. This is a treasure trove for young designers and small homes, or for one-season capsules where fewer materials are needed to create a collection while reducing waste.
slow fashion
As fast fashion brands tend to dominate shopping malls and high streets, “slow fashion” brands have emerged as a direct response. These brands use low-impact materials to create high-quality, low-impact, timeless styles. They are often made to order or in small quantities to avoid the overproduction-discount-disposal cycle, and only a few styles or collections are released each year.
Because of their low volume, they often have great insight into their suppliers and can provide deep transparency into where and how their clothes are made, giving consumers more information about the true impact of their purchases. You can get it. As an example, Swedish brand Asket issues an ‘impact receipt’ that calculates the carbon footprint, water usage and energy usage from farm to rack for each garment purchased.
fair and ethical
Although it is not “sustainable fashion” in terms of emissions or materials, the terms fairness and ethics are becoming increasingly important in the discussion. Another aspect to consider is whether the brand or company pays fair wages and protects workers’ rights in the production process. It comes down to the idea that if workers were paid a fair wage globally, pricing would better reflect the true cost of goods and reduce consumer dependence on increasingly cheap goods. I will.
sustainability score
Sustainability scoring systems include B-Corp. This certification requires companies to meet stringent environmental and social benchmarks, provide certain commitments and commit to transparency.
Most major fashion companies now publish annual impact reports, revealing everything from water and energy usage in their stores, and accounting for factors such as the supply chain and transportation of overseas factories. We research and quantify the environmental impact of our products. . They present their goals, sometimes using vague language or setting deadlines far in the future.
These reports are great for understanding a brand’s overall sustainability package and gaining a deeper understanding of a company’s values. In some cases, brands create small “sustainable” collections that get a lot of attention, but the rest of the clothes are made with conventional materials or in highly polluting factories. I am. Digging into your own data is a great way to keep an eye on your favorite brands.
