Sign up to receive the Vogue Business newsletter for the latest luxury news and insights, plus exclusive member-only discounts.
The official schedule for Paris Fashion Week has been released, with crowds set to return to the French capital after the Olympics. All eyes will be on Valentino’s first runway show on September 29th, after Alessandro Michele surprises with the lookbook for his first collection.
Among the notable absences from the show schedule is Maison Margiela amid reports that creative director John Galliano is stepping down (the brand declined to comment). Maison Margiela plans to hold an event on September 30th, with “details to be announced at a later date,” the brand said. Galliano’s most recent show was during spring couture week in January, and the brand has shown women’s ready-to-wear in February 2020, October 2020, 2021 and 2023. In January 2023, the brand also held a co-ed show at the end of men’s week in its new headquarters at Place des Etats-Unis.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin SS24 menswear. Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway
Off-White will also be absent, as this will be its New York debut. The Spring/Summer 2025 women’s ready-to-wear collection will run from September 23 to October 1, with a total of 70 shows and 38 presentations scheduled, a significant increase from SS24’s 67 and 40.
This season’s calendar will see the return of Gabriela Hearst, who has not shown in Paris since SS21 in October 2020. “Paris’s international influence and great platform for creative expression allow us to pursue development based on a long-term perspective, combining luxury and sustainability,” Hearst said in a statement. Also returning are Ludovic de Saint-Sernin, who showed just once in New York last season, and Y Project, who was absent from AW24 due to a “commitment to prioritizing investments.” Christopher Esber, winner of the 2024 Andam Prize, will return to the presentation calendar along with Elliott Emile and Aigle. New additions to the show calendar are Alain Paul and Niccolo Pasqualetti, finalist for the LVMH Prize. (The winner of the LVMH Prize will be announced on September 10th.)